Trench warfare in Chile

Until recently, I had always viewed Chilean wine as a bit like vacuum-packed pasta: dependable and functional but hardly exciting. On cursory inspection it seems generic and homogenous, lots of inexpensive and forgettable single varietals with hokum branding – although in fairness, a less cynical pair of eyes might see in that the secrets of its success: good value, easy drinking brands with excellent varietal typicity. Either way, it remains unlikely to be the first country most people would think of in terms of vinous innovation.

I had few expectations therefore when last month I visited Chile for the first...