Bordeaux 2017 – St-Julien

Ducru-Beaucaillou’s Bruno Borie likes to catch your attention. Examples are legion, from the night-club-like tasting room to the Jade Jagger label design for La Croix de Beaucaillou (since renamed Croix Ducru-Beaucaillou). And he is fond of using in his sales pitch metaphors and associations that are not always politically correct (Beyoncé for the 2009 vintage, Shakira for 2010).

I couldn’t resist the temptation to quote from his vintage notes, in which he reminds the Chinese that 2017 was their year of the Rooster, the national symbol...