Volcanic Wine Awards | The Jancis Robinson Story

波尔多 2020 年份四年后 – 白葡萄酒

Tuesday 13 February 2024 • 3 min read
Ch Carbonnieux

朱莉娅 (Julia) 对这个年份葡萄酒进行全面盲品后的评价。首先是白葡萄酒,包括干型和甜型。即将推出 – 右岸红酒左岸红酒。有关品鉴背景,请参阅波尔多 2020 重访;另请参阅我们的波尔多 2020 年份指南。上图为卡博尼酒庄 (Château Carbonnieux),本次品鉴中顶级干白葡萄酒的生产商之一。

Note: In order to deliver this article to you as early as possible, it has been translated with the use of AI. It has been added to a queue for a human translator to fully review and edit. Please pardon any minor translation imperfections while it is being reviewed.

以下 55 个品鉴笔记按如下分组:

在这些分组中,葡萄酒按字母顺序排列,但您可以根据需要重新排序。

经典干白葡萄酒

White

Tasted blind. Waxy, complex aroma – creamy and spiced, as well as rich in grapefruit and pear. Oak and acidity clashing a little at the moment but might improve with a little longer in bottle. (JH)

Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2023 – 2030
White

Tasted blind. More obviously oaky than some, with spice notes as well as pithy grapefruit and lemon. Tight, mouth-watering, with good fruit core. Long and vibrant. (JH)

Drink: 2023 – 2029
White

A Nicolas Thienpont property.
Tasted blind. Light aroma that is more grassy Sauvignon than waxy Sémillon. Mouth-watering on the palate, very crisp and not terribly appealing right now and perhaps a bit pinched on the finish. (JH)

Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2022 – 2027
White

Tasted blind. A bit sweaty on the nose, and a touch of stone dust. High acid, lean and citrusy but the creamy texture helps bring balance. (JH)

Alcohol: 13%
Drink: 2022 – 2026
White

Tasted blind. Marked by a vanilla/oak aroma and fresh lemon and grapefruit. Tight, mouth-watering and really clean-cut on the palate. Balanced, fresh, and needs time. (JH)

Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2023 – 2027
White

Tasted blind. A little bit grassy and not very aromatic at first, opening up to pear and a light note of vanilla. Rich and dense on the palate, really creamy and rich. Almost tastes off dry but has high acid to contrast. Deep and lemony. (JH)

Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2022 – 2027
White

Tasted blind. Fresh, creamy citrus aroma. Smells of Sémillon more than Sauvignon, even though it is 75% Sauvignon. Juicy, crisp, balanced but not complex. Decent length. (JH)

Alcohol: 13%
Drink: 2022 – 2028
White

Tasted blind. Grassy and ripe-citrus notes but a touch of stones, too. Tight and linear on the palate. A baby and needs time to unfurl. (JH)

Alcohol: 12.5%
Drink: 2024 – 2028
White

Tasted blind. Marked by a Sauvignon grassy aroma with a hint of stony minerality. Full and firm in the mouth, with good concentration on the mid palate. A bit sweet-sour on the finish. Slightly tart overall. (JH)

Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2022 – 2026
White

Tasted blind. Grassy, sweaty. A bit sweaty on the palate, the acidity slightly harsh in conjunction with the oak, and not very intense on the finish. (JH)

Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2022 – 2025
White

Tasted blind. Grassy and a bit sweaty on the nose. Crisp and intense on the palate. Tight, lemony aftertaste and power comes through on the finish. (JH)

Alcohol: 14%
Drink: 2022 – 2028
White

Tasted blind. First bottle was out of sorts but the second bottle also seemed sub-par. A slightly strange aroma – salt-and-vinegar crisps? – a bit green and hard on the palate, softened by the creamy texture. Mouth-watering finish. (JH)

Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2022 – 2026
White

Tasted blind. Light and restrained on the nose. Grassy, even a touch steely. Very crisp, mouth-watering, bone dry, lightish on the mid palate, a bit lean. (JH)

Alcohol: 13%
Drink: 2022 – 2026
White

Tasted blind. Rich, oaky/creamy aroma. Open and generous, with quite a bit of oak spice at first. On the palate, similar richness. Creamy in the extreme. Full in the mouth but balanced by a grapefruit-like freshness. (JH)

Alcohol: 13%
Drink: 2023 – 2029
White

Tasted blind. Very grassy nose. Lively, crisp, very Sauvignon (though there is about 30% Sémillon, apparently), with subtle oak. Really fresh on the palate and nicely textured to a long, chewy finish. (JH)

Alcohol: 14%
Drink: 2023 – 2030
White

Tasted blind. Very little on the nose. A bit green. Very tight on the palate. Certainly fresh and vibrant on the mid palate. Slightly green on the finish. Very Sauvignon (it is 100%). (JH)

Alcohol: 13%
Drink: 2023 – 2029
White

Tasted blind. Smoky, mealy on the nose. Firmly textured. Only moderate acidity but a subtle wine that’s not trying too hard. Long finish thanks to the texture. (JH)

Alcohol: 14%
Drink: 2023 – 2027
White

Tasted blind. Much riper-tasting than La Clarté de Haut-Brion. Pear and guava notes as well as oaky spice. Creamy and mealy, full-flavoured in the mouth, with rather smart oak on the palate. Taut, fresh, much more elegant on the finish than I suspected at the start. (JH)

Alcohol: 13%
Drink: 2023 – 2028
White

Tasted blind. Ripe pears and openly fruity, with a hint of oak spice. Tight, dense, lemon-and-lime purity. Full in the mouth and long, with oaky richness. Not yet complex but with potential. (JH)

Alcohol: 13%
Drink: 2023 – 2028
White

Tasted blind. Grassy Sauvignon nose. A touch floral. Rounded and generous in the mouth. Creamy, gentle. Subtle but long. (JH)

Alcohol: 13%
Drink: 2023 – 2028
White

Tasted blind. Creamy vanilla aroma but also a nice savoury oak character. Smart oak. Tight, serious and textured. Chewy, good depth of fruit and harmonious length. Very good. (JH)

Alcohol: 14%
Drink: 2023 – 2032
White

Tasted blind. Ripe, tropical notes of guava and pear. Powerful, deep, not archetypal bordeaux blanc but rich and generous and still nicely sour-fresh on the finish. (JH)

Alcohol: 15%
Drink: 2023 – 2029

来自苏玳 (Sauternes) 的干型葡萄酒

White

Tasted blind. More lemony fruit on the nose compared with Château Bastor-Lamontagne's Confidence but also a similar spice note. Very tight, pretty dry and not much fruit on the palate. Lean and dry but more fruit than in the Confidence. (JH)

Alcohol: 12.5%
Drink: 2023 – 2027
White

Tasted blind. Spicy, stony nose without much obvious fruit. It does smell like dry Sauternes: sour-fresh with a touch of orange. High acid but could do with more fruit and yet it powers up on the finish. Sour aftertaste. (JH)

Alcohol: 13%
Drink: 2023 – 2026
White

Twin-top stopper.
Tasted blind. Closed on the nose and a touch of plastic. Very bizarre on the palate. Oxidised? Confected. (JH)

Alcohol: 12%
Drink: 2022 – 2023
White

Owned by burgundy producer Jean-Marie Guffens.
Tasted blind. Rather strange nose with a strong aroma of struck match – seems to be trying to be burgundy but not succeeding. Some lemon fruit at the core but the winemaking has intruded too much here. Sour aftertaste. (JH)

Alcohol: 14%
Drink: 2022 – 2024
White

Tasted blind. Slight note of reduction – sweaty. But richer fruit on the palate, some depth and power. Not fruity but has good structure, a sour-fresh finish and an impression that this is not bone dry. (JH)

Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2023 – 2028
White

Tasted blind. Grassy aroma, quite green on the nose and markedly green on the palate. Fresh for sure but a little aggressive and sour on the finish. (JH)

Alcohol: 13%
Drink: 2023 – 2028
White

Tasted blind. Distinctive in this line-up – a touch floral as well as grassy. Sweet and rather confected on the palate, like honey and lemon, even though it is dry. Fruity finish but not much to it. Disappointing. (JH)

Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2022 – 2025
White

Tasted blind. Fresh and lemony at first. But then sour and dry on the palate. Fresh but lacks fruit. (JH)

Alcohol: 13%
Drink: 2022 – 2024
White

Tasted blind. Riper citrus fruit than on many of these dry Sauternes. A touch of botrytis-like orange character. Crisp acidity and a bit lean. Then some heat on the finish. (JH)

Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2022 – 2026
White

Made in very small volumes.
Tasted blind. Second bottle similar to first. Not much on the nose. Some citrus on the palate but lacks intensity and personality. Both this wine and the Vieilles Vignes were disappointing compared with other examples of Suduiraut's dry whites I have tasted. (JH)

Alcohol: 13%
Drink: 2022 – 2027
White

Tasted blind. First vintage of this dry wine from the Sauternes region.
First bottle did not seem quite right and a second bottle was opened but it was pretty much the same as the first: smells a bit oxidised, of ripe apples. Creamy texture, decent acidity but flat overall. The 2022 vintage tasted late last year was a definite step up. (JH)

Alcohol: 14%
Drink: 2022 – 2025
White

Tasted blind. A sour lemony note on the nose, then grassy and a bit lean on the palate but could do service as an inexpensive bordeaux blanc. (JH)

Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2022 – 2024
White

Tasted blind. One of the freshest in this flight on the nose, but sweet and simple on the palate. (JH)

Alcohol: 14%
Drink: 2022 – 2025

甜型葡萄酒

White

Tasted blind. Spicy citrus and a touch oily on the nose. Fat and full on the palate, some barley sugar (British hard candy). Rich and just in balance. (JH)

Alcohol: 13%
Drink: 2023 – 2028
White

Tasted blind. Ripe lemon and a touch of sour apricot and spice. Better freshness than some. Sweet and yet not cloying. Relatively simple but sweetness and acidity are balanced. (JH)

Alcohol: 13%
Drink: 2025 – 2032
White

Tasted blind. Perfumed with blossom and ripe lemons, and a touch of vanilla. Sweet and simple on the palate, with a note of apricot but only moderate intensity and freshness. (JH)

Alcohol: 13%
Drink: 2024 – 2028
White

Tasted blind. Much more complex on the nose than the Guiraud. Bitter orange and marzipan, oily spice. Bitter orange adds freshness but it could still do with a little more acidity. (JH)

Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2025 – 2030
White

Tasted blind. Light notes of spice and white mushrooms. Creamy, gentle, lacks the bitter-orange component of complexity and freshness but there’s a long, lemony finish. (JH)

Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2025 – 2030
White

Tasted blind. Again, there’s the marzipan notes of botrytis here and a suggestion of bitterness. Spicy, deep and mouth-watering on the finish. Chewy and balanced for the longer term. (JH)

Alcohol: 13%
Drink: 2026 – 2035
White

Tasted blind. Ripe, golden and spicy on the nose, with a touch of apricot and lots of marzipan. Plenty of apricot and orange on the full, rounded palate and good freshness. (JH)

Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2025 – 2035
White

Tasted blind. First bottle slightly corked but second bottle is fine and has good acidity. Rich apricot, ripe and very, very sweet – but simple overall. (JH)

Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2024 – 2028
White

Tasted blind. Pineapple and exotic fruit rather than botrytis aromas. Simple, creamy, gentle. Could come from just about anywhere. Fresh sweet fruits. (JH)

Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2024 – 2028
White

Tasted blind. Deep gold. Ripe pear and pineapple. Fat and full in the mouth. Generous and spicy caramelised flavours but could do with more freshness. (JH)

Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2024 – 2028
White

Tasted blind. First bottle corked. Second bottle: almonds and bitter orange. Only moderate intensity but has a nice touch of botrytis character. (JH)

Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2023 – 2029
White

Tasted blind. Rich, ripe pear aroma. Full, viscous and fat and has only just enough acidity to balance. Big and sweet. (JH)

Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2025 – 2030
White

Tasted blind. Succulent, honeyed orange with a touch of apricot. Barley-sugar (a specific British hard candy) and broad. Viscous and deep. Could do with a touch more acidity. (JH)

Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2025 – 2032
White

Tasted blind. Fresh lemon aroma without obvious botrytis character. A touch of dried grasses. Sweet and viscous and fresh enough. A bit flat on the finish. (JH)

Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2024 – 2030
White

Tasted blind. Smells of golden syrup and tastes simple and sweet. None of the complexity or bitter-sweetness of classic Sauternes but it is long. (JH)

Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2025 – 2032
White

Tasted blind. Fresh pears and no sign of botrytis on the nose. A touch floral. Soft, relatively light – a simple sweet white. (JH)

Alcohol: 13%
Drink: 2024 – 2028
White

Tasted blind. A hint of nail varnish as well as ripe citrus but not much botrytis character. Simple and sweet, with confit lemon. (JH)

Alcohol: 14%
Drink: 2024 – 2029
White

Tasted blind. Spice and dried grasses. Much better on the palate – rich with dried apricots. Full but needs a little more acidity for balance and a longer life. (JH)

Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2025 – 2029
White

Tasted blind. Marzipan and apricots, complex and spicy. Deep, intense orange flavours and plenty of freshness to balance the viscous richness. Long bitter-orange aftertaste. Very good, especially in this vintage and this line-up. (JH)

Alcohol: 14%
Drink: 2026 – 2035
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