DRC, Leroy and Musignys

Last week I had the enormous pleasure of helping a wine collector empty his cellar of a small fraction of his treasures over a couple of dinners at Twin Farms, a rather magical place near Woodstock, Vermont, that tries to recreate the rustic beauty of an old Vermont farm, while treating its guests to the utmost luxury.

The collector Rick (pictured above with his wife Jan and a very happy British taster) manfully  allowed me to pick from his collection and I chose the great luxury of three consecutive vintages of DRC Montrachet that, it seemed to me, might...