Furmint, a smoking hot food wine

Something intrigued me while I was at the Wines of Hungary Furmint tasting. Caroline Gilby MW, who’s been involved with Hungarian wine for over 20 years, commented at the tasting that Furmint ages well. And I noticed, moving from table to table, that many of the wines selected for tasting – current releases – were from the 2015 vintage. Some were older. They all tasted beautifully fresh and tight and youthful, with years still ahead of them. But these weren't particularly young wines. 

Heading home on the train that evening, a dusty...