How Gigondas ages

Almost as soon as I got back in early November from my trip to the Rhône and Burgundy to taste the 2013s, a clutch of friendly Gigondas producers came en masse to London to host a dinner designed to demonstrate to British wine writers and sommeliers just how well their wines age.

It was quite ambitious to show 20 different full-bodied reds from 2006 back to 1998 over a multi-course dinner in the somewhat close quarters of 28-50 wine bar in Fetter Lane, the original one just off Fleet Street of these three excellent winey watering holes in central London...