In search of Gavi

Last month I finally made it to Gavi, the town of the eponymous wine in the province of Alessandria, 70 km north of Genova. Although geographically speaking it is firmly Piemontese, the wine, breezy and light, seems much more at home in Liguria, as if it were especially made for the fish and seafood dishes of the nearby coast.

The Gavi code is not easily cracked. Light and spritzy, often a tad neutral, with allegedly little capacity to age, its immediacy sits uneasily with the traditionally high price tag attached to it. I assumed that the wine's popularity had something...