Luis Pato's reds – a match for fine bordeaux

Long-term purple pagers will already have read my enthusiastic tasting notes on Luis Pato’s 2001s, no longer made within the constraints of the Bairrada appellation but from exactly the same low-yielding, carefully-tended vineyards in this part of northern Portugal south of the Douro Valley.

I recently had the chance to taste a vertical of  favourite vintages from this pioneer, including his Vinhas Velhas (old vine) bottling. I must admit I had no particular expectations but I was extremely impressed by the consistency and sheer quality of these wines, all except the Quinta do Ribeirinho grown on chalky clay. They really...