Piemonte – much more than Nebbiolo

Claudio Fenocchio (right) gestured across the vineyard towards an ancient stone building. ‘I was born in that house, just like my father and my grandfather, and my grandfather’s father', he chuckled. ‘Probably in the same room.’

We are sitting in his tidy office, with wide glass windows looking out across the foggy fields and barely visible Piemontese farmhouses. We are both now relaxed. After completing a marathon Barolo barrel tasting, we are finally sampling one of the two wines I’ve come to Giacomo Fenocchio to taste. A glass...