Revving up Loire Sauvignons

If Menetou Salon, Quincy and Reuilly are the poor relations of Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé, spare a thought for the Loire vignerons producing Sauvignon Blanc outside these famous Central Vineyard appellations. How can AOC Touraine and Vins de Pays du Val de Loire Sauvignons compete? Especially when the pound's slide to a record low against the euro and spiralling taxes have eroded their traditional cheap and cheerful position on the bottom shelves? As Loire courtier Charles Sydney observes, ‘a wine sold for £5.99 in 2006 will sell for £7.50 next month, even if the grower holds...