Rías Baixas – terroir complexity

If you’ve heard anything about Rías Baixas, it’s likely a story dominated by a narrative of Albariño, Atlantic Ocean, salt, citrus-and-peach fruitiness and early-drinking wines. Seafood wines. This is all true, except when it’s not, as Ferran Centelles pointed out in Rías Baixas reinvented, and as the wines in this tasting report further drive home.

Not only does this Atlantic-facing Galician region produce (very good) sparklings, dry whites and dry reds, but the dry whites in particular offer an...