Rioja – where are the classics?

The wine landscape in Spain has been changing. Many claim it’s made Spain one of the most exciting red wine regions on the planet. Others that its wines are mostly strong, over-extracted, indistinguishable from each other and ultimately simple. Classical rioja is increasingly difficult to find in Spain and, like sherry, is no longer fashionable. 

The sight of Africa shrouded in swirling mists across the Straits of Gibraltar reminded me that...