Sherries for all seasons

Tamlyn writes Sherry has perhaps only one thing in common with Riesling – it is one of those wines that the wine press is always slating as 'next big thing' but only us insiders really get. Anyone who has not felt the rock-salt grip of manzanilla, the pressed-white-flowers-into-focaccia of fino, the haunting lost song of palo cortado, the old-photo-albums-nostalgia sweetness of amontillado and the deep-bone biting sepia ache of oloroso has, surely, not lived.

Like Riesling lovers, us sherry lovers are a tribe. We get this. If the rest of...