Terrific Pacific Rim Rieslings

I had the opportunity to sip Randall Grahm's single-vineyard Pacific Rim Rieslings from Washington state while thumbing through his very useful (and free) booklet, Riesling Rules. Grahm's new 2007 vineyard designates from Solstice Vineyard in Yakima Valley and the biodynamically farmed Wallula Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills (both sub-appellations of the Columbia Valley) are impressive, particularly since they're so soon out of the gate.

Grahm's "regular" Pacific Rim Rieslings, which come in both dry and sweet versions, are unfussy, fruity blends and in the neighbourhood of $10/£8 per bottle. Yet the spanking-new single-site wines take a big leap in...