Tasting beyond the VDP

In the week leading up to the increasingly important Prowein wine fair in Düsseldorf, we'll be publishing two collections of tasting notes on German wines. According to well-known German sommelier Hendrik Thoma, with whom I travelled to Encontro international wine conference in northern Portugal last Thursday, German wine is now so fashionable in Germany that he's almost worried about overkill. It's about time the rest of us caught up!

This collection of wine is marketed by Ulrich Langguth of Mo-Rhe-Na, who was anxious to widen my tasting experience outside the confines of the VDP association of growers who...