Barolo 2006s et al via Berrys

UK wine merchants Berry Bros showed off the fruits of its sniffing around Italy recently in London. We were ushered into the appropriately grand and historic main hall of the Vintners' Hall, where the Feast of Five Kings was held in 1363. This was a chance to taste some of the newly released 2006 Barolos represented by Berry Bros, as well as a many an older vintage, a clutch of Tuscans and one or two deserving incomers from Mt Etna and Valpolicella.

For a moment I felt as though I were in Italy, surrounded by more animated Italian dialogue than...