Over the weekend of Les Trois Glorieuses in November, when the world arrives in the Côte d'Or, there was much talking up of the 2002 vintage with the emphasis on ripeness levels – rescued after a cool summer by the warmth of September. The sugars rose rapidly during the last few weeks but there is still a question mark over whether tannins ripened as successfully. One of my more mischievous colleagues reported that Jean François of the ubiquitous (in Burgundy anyway) cooper François Frères was dashing around the Hospices de Beaune tasting of infant 2002s (practically impossible to taste at...