Burgundies in their prime

I've been lucky enough to be invited to some very good dinners recently. This one, focused on some exceptionally mature red burgundies, several of them bought in Belgium, and a couple of delicious 1988 Sauternes, preceded a Berry Bros masterclass given by Frédéric Lafarge of Volnay (who, I learned, took his grown-up children to Tuscany for their summer holiday last year, which I thought admirably open-minded of him) on the same night as our Paulée de Purple Pages, unfortunately. He is pictured here with his father Michel. Their wines are outstanding but need much more time than those of...