Noel Pinguet, winemaker at Domaine Huet, the best-known producer of Vouvray, came to show off some of his wines in London recently. Nowadays, these are not just Vouvrays but also Hungarian sweet wines made at Királyudvar, the Tokaji producer that is now also owned by Anthony Hwang. Now that Domaine Huet is so well funded, Pinguet can afford to make the sacrifices required to maximise quality. He told me that he now makes the sort of 'wines with great purity' he wants to make and can reject substandard fruit such as half of the crop in 2006 because of grey...