Vega Sicilia’s new technical director Gonzalo Iturriaga de Juan, who arrived at the estate in September last year, has quickly picked up owner and CEO Pablo Alvárez’s mantra, ‘evolution not revolution’. When I asked him at a recent showing of their new releases in London if he planned any changes to the wines now in his hands, he explained that they were making little experiments for possible fine adjustments. I suppose if it ain’t broke, no need to fix it.
His only concession to change was with their two Macán wines from Rioja (a joint venture with Benjamin de...