We’re planning a big collection of Languedoc wine reviews but Gérard Bertrand deserves an article of his own. His rise and rise to dominate the region through sheer quality is quite extraordinary. Ten years ago he was already quite a powerful force, having acquired his base, the Domaine de l’Hospitalet just south of Narbonne – now the setting of an acclaimed summer jazz festival as well as a major tourist destination – in 2002. But since then, with the help of an array of friendly bankers, he has continued to add jewels all over the Languedoc to his crown, while...