The UK-based Wine Society continued its biannual tradition of showing off the great value it offers its members (who have admittedly to pay £40 for a life-time share in this wine-buying co-operative). Note the number of GVs and even VGVs below.
The reds were even more impressive, if anything, than the whites, although Mac Forbes' Blind Spot bottlings from all over Australia were outstanding value by any measure, especially when one thinks of the strength of the Australian dollar (although I thought the Yarra Chardonnay from his home patch one of the weaker wines in this range). There were some great bargains from Portugal, too.
Wines are listed by colour and in descending score order.WHITES
Ch Cantegril, The Society's Exhibition 2010 Sauternes
Château Cantegril is owned by father-and-son team Pierre and Denis Dubourdieu, who also own Château Doisy-Daëne. Cantegril is an enclosed 20-hectare vineyard planted in one piece on the limestone plateau of Haut Barsac. Roughly 75% Sémillon, 20% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Muscadelle.
Very rich and enticing on the nose. Perfectly representative even if not the most concentrated, so relatively open. You could already enjoy it even if it will age for an age. (JR) 13.5%
Very rich and enticing on the nose. Perfectly representative even if not the most concentrated, so relatively open. You could already enjoy it even if it will age for an age. (JR) 13.5%
Drink
2013
–
2023
£19 The Wine Society
17
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt, Graacher Josephshöfer Riesling Spätlese 2005 Mosel
Gosh, how evocative to have such a sweet, relatively mature Mosel! Great price! Very difficult to spit. Racy. Delicate. VGV (JR)
8.5%
Drink
2011
–
2020
£14.95 The Wine Society
17
Zarcillo Gewurztraminer 2012 Bío-Bío
Certainly a textbook Gewurz at a great price with just a hint of sweetness. Very upfront but great for varietal teaching! GV (JR)
13.5%
Drink
2013
£6.25 The Wine Society
16
Mahi, Twin Valleys Chardonnay 2011 Marlborough
Delicate, well balanced, slightly salty. Quite light and racy even if not exactly distinctive. Better than the NZ average. (JR)
13.5%
Drink
2013
–
2016
£14.95 The Wine Society
16
Joseph Burrier, Ch de Beauregard, La Roche 2010 St-Véran
50% tank fermented and 50% barrel fermented. Broad palate entry and then very tight on the finish. Seems a little expensive in comparison to the Society’s Exhibition Limarí Chardonnay. Earnestly made. (JR)
13%
Drink
2014
–
2017
£12.95 The Wine Society
15.5
Dom André Bonhomme, Cuvée Spéciale 2008 Viré-Clessé
Sulphides rule! And rob this wine of a little of its fruit. Hard finish. (JR)
13.5%
Drink
2014
–
2017
£11.95 The Wine Society
15.5
Concha y Toro, The Society's Exhibition Chardonnay 2011 Limarí
Part barrel-fermented. Juicy, green and with a hint of popcorn and bourbon. (JR)
13%
Drink
2013
–
2015
£8.95 The Wine Society
15.5
Mac Forbes, Blind Spot Chardonnay 2012 Yarra Valley
Unoaked. Very competent but perhaps not quite as exciting as the rest of this amazingly good value Mac Forbes range. (JR)
12.5%
Drink
2013
–
2016
£8.50 The Wine Society
15.5
Dom Jean-Marc Brocard, Domaine Ste-Claire 2011 Chablis
Pungent and pure. Just the ticket. Very competent. (JR)
12.5%
Drink
2013
–
2017
£10.95 The Wine Society
16
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt, The Society's Riesling 2011 Saar
Brilliant texture, flavour and quality for the money. Such smoothness next to the Chilean Corte Ignacio example. Delicacy too. Herby flavours. Vibrant but probably not a long-term player. VGV (JR)
11%
Drink
2013
–
2015
£8.95 The Wine Society
16
Concha y Toro, Ignacio Riesling 2011 Casablanca
Big and off dry with quite a bit of residual sugar – borderline Kabinett and Spätlese? Very slightly phenolic but pure and quite well priced. (JR)
11.5%
Drink
2013
–
2017
£8.50 The Wine Society
15.5
Mac Forbes, Blind Spot Riesling 2012 Clare Valley
Pretty, well-judged sugar-acid balance in this sort of feinherb style. Again, amazing value. Bone-dry finish and very appetising. VGV (JR)
12%
Drink
2013
–
2016
£7.50 The Wine Society
16
Botanica, Mary Delany Collection Chenin Blanc 2010 Citrusdal Mountain
A beautiful wine showing the finesse and balance that may be achieved from cooler climate old-vine fruit (in this case from a vineyard at about 800 metres near Clanwilliam). Brightness of fresh, aromatic citrus fruit distinguishes this exceptional wine, from new star Virginia Povall.
This wine seems rather less exciting than the breathless note from the Wine Society buyers (see italics above). I couldn't be more of a fan of South African Chenin from outlying vineyards but… it seems a little middle-of-the-road to me. Yes it's fresh. and perhaps a bit Loireish. Good dry finish. Very different from the usual dense honeyed model. Will probably wear well though. (JR)
Drink
2013
–
2016
£14.95 The Wine Society
16
Prince Știrbey, Tămâioasă Românească Sec 2012 Romania
Light and fresh. Delicate grapey fruit with a dry finish – quite a contrast to the Torrontés tasted immediately before it. Rather Germanic build! I would never guess 14% alcohol. Well made. (JR)
14%
Drink
2013
–
2015
£9.50 The Wine Society
16
Dominio del Plata, Faldeos Nevados Torrontés 2012 Argentina
Water white. Sweetish and sherbetty. Off dry. Charming and full of grapey fruit. Grapefruit finish. (JR)
14%
Drink
2013
£7.50 The Wine Society
15.5
Ch Mont-Pérat 2011 Bordeaux
Complex smoky nose. Creamy and rich. Then a dry finish. Really intriguing and rich. Flattering. Long. (JR)
13.5%
Drink
2013
–
2017
£12.50 The Wine Society
16
Litoral, Ventolera Sauvignon Blanc 2012 Leyda
Rather industrial nose. Fast fade on the finish. (JR)
13.5%
Drink
2013
£7.75 The Wine Society
15
Mac Forbes, Blind Spot Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2011 Margaret River
Good positive aperitif wine with some nettles and well-integrated fruit. Seems underpriced. GV (JR)
12%
Drink
2012
–
2014
£7.95 The Wine Society
16
Artiga Fustel, Saleta Sauvignon Blanc/Moscatel 2012 Alicante
70% Moscatel, 15% Sauvignon Blanc plus others. Heady and sweet tasting then a bit watery on the end. Orange-flower flavours and a little astringency. Distinctive anyway… (JR)
12.5%
Drink
2013
–
0
£6.75 The Wine Society
15.5
The Foundry Roussanne 2011 Stellenbosch
100% Roussanne from a single vineyard. I'm a fan of The Foundry but this seems a little simple at the moment. A bit pinched without much aromatic complexity. (JR)
13.5%
Drink
2014
–
2015
£11.50 The Wine Society
15.5
Las Olas Verdejo 2012 Rueda
Bit dull but very green, fruity and refreshing. Competent even if unexciting. (JR)
13%
Drink
2013
–
2014
£7.25 The Wine Society
15
Cooperativa Santo Isidro de Pegões, Adega de Pegões Colheita Seleccionada 2011 Vinho Regional Península de Setúbal
Hugely satisfying, broad, interesting blend. Drink up but VGV. (JR)
13%
Drink
2012
–
2013
£6.50 The Wine Society
16
Concha y Toro, The Society’s Chilean Chardonnay 2012 Limarí
About 10% barrel-fermented wine. Very tight with something almost Sauvignon-like about this but super refreshing. As though there is quite a bit of carbon dioxide in here. Very pungent and GV. (JR)
14%
Drink
2013
–
2015
£6.75 The Wine Society
15.5
Bon Cap, The Ruins Chardonnay/Viognier 2012 Robertson
Organic. A bit ordinary and mass market on the nose. Slightly industrial. (JR)
13.5%
Drink
2013
£6.95 The Wine Society
15
Tyrrell's, Old Winery Verdelho 2012 Hunter Valley
Tangy and bone dry. As though picked just a little before full ripeness. Clean and box ticking. (JR)
12%
Drink
2013
–
2014
£8.50 The Wine Society
15
ROSÉS
Étienne Suzzoni, Culombu Rosé 2012 Vin de Corse
40% Nielluccio, 40% Sciacarello, 20% Grenache. You have to struggle a bit to find the Corsican maquis flavours under the high-tech low-temperature fermentation aromas. Perhaps they will have emerged in time for summer? (JR)
12.5%
Drink
2013
£8.95 The Wine Society
15
REDS
Mount Langi Ghiran, The Society's Exhibition Shiraz 2007 Victoria
Fabulous value for such a mature wine sold in Australian dollars. Fully resolved and savoury. I honestly find it difficult to believe the price. The label isn’t exciting but the wine certainly is. VGV. (JR)
14.5%
Drink
2011
–
2016
£11.95 The Wine Society
16.5
Can Blau, Gil Family Estates, Blau 2011 Montsant
Carignan, Syrah, Grenache. Massively exuberant then minerally. Just as attractive as many a Priorat with masses of character. VGV (JR)
14.5%
Drink
2013
–
2017
£8.95 The Wine Society
16.5
Mac Forbes, Blind Spot Shiraz/Grenache/Mataro 2011 Rutherglen
Sweet transparent and scented – very unlike the GSMs of old. Lots more acidity than a Châteauneuf. Almost more like a burgundy! Clean finish. GV (JR)
14%
Drink
2013
–
2016
£7.50 The Wine Society
16
Familia Deicas, Atlántico Sur Reserve Merlot/Tannat 2011 Maldonado
Not mad about the sweet oak. More appetising than the pure Tannat though. Good fruit underneath the oak. (JR)
13.5%
Drink
2013
–
2017
£12.50 The Wine Society
16
Familia Deicas, Atlántico Sur Tannat 2011 Maldonado
More serious than the Marselan, this has very sweet fruit with very slightly obvious oak. As though icing sugar had been sprinkled on it. Not thoroughly refreshing. (JR)
14%
Drink
2013
–
2016
£11.95 The Wine Society
15.5
Familia Deicas, Atlántico Sur Marselan 2012 Maldonado
Lively, clean and fruity though far from the best value in this Wine Society collection. Pretty. Sweet and light. (JR)
12.5%
Drink
2013
–
2015
£7.95 The Wine Society
15.5
Catena Zapata, The Society's Exhibition Malbec 2010 Mendoza
60% Gualtallary fruit at 1450 m, for perfume and finesse, and 40% (from two different wines each 20%) from Agrelo at 950 m.
Savoury nose and sweet, flattering palate entry with well-judged combination of ripe sweet fruit and structure. Serious, grown-up wine. With some floral, rose-petal top notes. All pleasure. Though sweet rather than dry on the end too. I suspect it's more than 14%. GV (JR) 14%
Savoury nose and sweet, flattering palate entry with well-judged combination of ripe sweet fruit and structure. Serious, grown-up wine. With some floral, rose-petal top notes. All pleasure. Though sweet rather than dry on the end too. I suspect it's more than 14%. GV (JR) 14%
Drink
2013
–
2019
£9.95 The Wine Society
16.5
Quinta Vale D Maria, Rufo 2010 Douro
The Wine Society tasting note says it all: 'Fresh tasting, mineral, and fragrant.' Actually manages to be quite lifted and lively. No heat. No raisined-fruit notes. Really VGV (JR)
13.5%
Drink
2013
–
2017
£8.50 The Wine Society
16
Castillo del Barón Monastrell 2010 Yecla
Sweet and vibrant nose then a bit dull and sour on the end. Somehow the richness promised on the nose has been sucked out of it. (JR)
13.5%
Drink
2013
–
2014
£5.50 The Wine Society
15
Ch Gruaud Larose, Sarget de Gruaud Larose 2009 St-Julien
The second wine of Gruaud-Larose, farmed organically. Not overblown. Well mannered with an undertow of the drama of the vintage. Throbs a bit on the palate. (JR)
13.5%
Drink
2013
–
2020
£19 The Wine Society
16
Ch d'Aurilhac 2004 Haut-Médoc
Matured for a year in French oak barrels, 35% of which were new. Good stuff! Mature, inexpensive claret from St-Seurin de Cadourne. Strong gravelly note. Appetising. Great with a roast. GV (JR)
13.5%
Drink
2010
–
2018
£12.50 The Wine Society
16
Ch de Panigon 2009 Médoc
Fairly standard issue. Slightly inky. Not much charm. Wait? (JR)
14%
Drink
2015
–
2020
£9.95 The Wine Society
15.5 +
Ch Florie Aude, Les Argilières 2008 Bordeaux
85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. Great price! Juicy and light. Well-balanced stew of rusty nails. Old-fashioned claret that hides its alcohol extremely well. For traditionalists. GV (JR)
14%
Drink
2012
–
2015
£6.95 The Wine Society
15.5
Dom de la Noblaie 2011 Chinon
Useful half bottle. Lovely pure scent, even from this challenging vintage. Juicy with a slatey sort of dry finish. Classic stuff! (JR)
13.5%
Drink
2013
–
2017
£5.25 per half bottle The Wine Society
16.5
Heumann, Reserve Kékfrankos 2009 Villány
Deep crimson. Very nervy and rich on the nose with sleek, well-groomed fruit. Certainly as good as many an Austrian Blaufränkisch. Well done but a tad bumptious and sweet. (JR)
15%
Drink
2013
–
2016
£16 The Wine Society
16
Pittnauer, Pitti 2011 Burgenland
Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch blend. Dusty fruity nose. Lots of ripe fruit. Slightly cinnamon spicy. Finishes a little suddenly but a very good introduction to Austrian red. GV (JR)
13.5%
Drink
2013
–
2014
£8.50 The Wine Society
15.5
Terroir d'Origem, Vinha do Reino 2010 Douro
Lower key and less dramatic than many a Douro red, but so much cheaper! Lots of character per penny. Like a blend of 90% Médoc with 10% port. GV (JR)
13.5%
Drink
2013
–
2016
£6.50 The Wine Society
15.5
Cantina di Montalcino, Poggio del Sasso Sangiovese 2011 IGT Toscana
Rather sweet and modern and a tad industrial. Quite a jolt in this tasting! From the Cantina di Montalcino, I see, so presumably the co-op? (JR)
13.5%
Drink
2013
–
2015
£6.95 The Wine Society
15
Plantaže Vranac 2010 Montenegro
Proper wine at a supermarket price. Just slightly dull on the end but lots of round, Adriatic fruit and a dry tarry finish. GV (JR)
13%
Drink
2012
–
2015
£6.95 The Wine Society
16
Comm G B Burlotto, Vigneto Monvigliero 2008 Barolo
Wonderfully seductive complex nose. Lighter and more open than many 2008s. Ethereal. Tar and roses indeed. A wine to demonstrate Barolo's allure to doubters? (JR)
14.5%
Drink
2013
–
2021
£28 The Wine Society
17.5
Thymiopoulos, Earth and Sky 2009 Naoussa
Xynomavro, 40-year-old vines. Looks and smells quite evolved with obviously dry-grown, hot-climate fruit – even a light suggestion of raisins, caramel and tar – but very well balanced with refreshing acidity on the finish. Though I must confess I had been hoping for a bargain… (JR)
14.5%
Drink
2012
–
2017
£20 The Wine Society
16.5
Dog Point Pinot Noir 2010 Marlborough
More complex nose than the Craggy Pinot made especially for the Wine Society. Polished and sophisticated. Pure pleasure. Not cheap though. (JR)
14%
Drink
2013
–
2018
£23.50 The Wine Society
17
Craggy Range, The Society's Exhibition Single Vineyard Pinot Noir 2011 Martinborough
From their Te Muna Road vineyard. Interesting nose that splits the difference between muddy and liquorice. Confident, mature-vine sort of fruit. The merest hint of beetroot. Well done! (JR)
13.5%
Drink
2013
–
2018
£16 The Wine Society
16.5
J Hofstätter, Mazon Pinot Nero Riserva 2009 Alto Adige
Very aromatic and ethereal after the much earthier Marsannays. Juicy and pretty without ersatz sweetness. Only a hint of coffee flavour. A fine example. Though just a tad dry on the end. (JR)
13.5%
Drink
2013
–
2018
£21 The Wine Society
16.5
Dom Sylvain Pataille, Les Longeroies 2010 Marsannay
Intense and rewarding, though still awfully dry after a very clean, pure exposition of Marsannay fruit. Still tight. Wait! (JR)
13%
Drink
2015
–
2019
£21 The Wine Society
16
Dom Sylvain Pataille 2010 Marsannay
Pale cherry red. Bracing and uncompromising. None of the friendly sweetness of the Chilean. A little dour for the moment. (JR)
12.5%
Drink
2014
–
2018
£14.50 The Wine Society
15.5
Maycas del Limarí, Reserva Especial 2011 Limarí
70% open-topped tanks and with new oak reduced from 40% to 20%. Slightly green note on smooth, gentle Pinot fruit. Refreshing and nicely judged but a tiny bit simple. (JR)
14%
Drink
2013
–
2016
£11.95 The Wine Society
15.5
Castello di Luzzano, Vena Rossa Gutturnio Riserva 2011 Colli Piacentini
Barbera and Bonarda. Lifted, fruity nose. Then real structure. Lots of flavour bubbling within a strict framework. More mineral than fruity. Great confident palate impact. GV (JR)
13.5%
Drink
2013
–
2017
£8.95 The Wine Society
16.5
Clavesana 2011 Dolcetto di Dogliani
Scented and exuberantly ripe. Bone dry and tangy – almost as though there were a little dried grape in here – but masses of pure personality. VGV (JR)
13.5%
Drink
2013
–
2015
£6.95 The Wine Society
16
Dom Chignard, Les Moriers 2012 Fleurie
Exciting mineral streak cuts through the vibrant fruit. Dry finish, thoroughly French! No fun without food but lovely with fairly light dishes and saucisson, Should age well. (JR)
12.5%
Drink
2013
–
2017
£9.50 The Wine Society
16.5
Robert Sérol, Vieilles Vignes 2012 Côte Roannaise
Very fine and fresh and dense. Explosive but appetising fruit. GV (JR)
12%
Drink
2013
–
2015
£8.50 The Wine Society
16.5
Cave St-Verny Pinot Noir 2012 IGP Puy-de-Dôme
Very fresh and pretty on the nose. Bone dry but some very charming, open Pinot fruit on the way there. (JR)
13.5%
Drink
2013
–
2014
£11.50 The Wine Society
16
Curto, La Foia 2011 Barbera d'Alba
La Morra. No clarification or filtering. Quite pale crimson. Lovely purity on the nose. Very fresh and zesty. Marked acidity but absolutely no layers of make-up. Does this make it a natural wine? GV (JR)
14%
Drink
2013
–
2017
£8.50 The Wine Society
16
Terra d’Alter 2011 Vinho Regional Alentejano
Aragonez (Tempranillo), with Touriga Nacional, Alicante Bouschet and Trincadeira, and small proportions of other local grapes. Ridiculously cheap. Harmonious, intriguing nose. Soberly but attractively labelled. Damson fruit and definitely sweetness before acid and light tannin. A very well-judged whole. VGV (JR)
14%
Drink
2013
–
2015
£5.95 The Wine Society
16