Négociants' 2021 burgundies

After spending some time in Burgundy during the 2021 harvest, I have been looking forward eagerly to being able to taste the produce of a growing season that was the most stressful, for vignerons, for more than half a century.

My sense was that, from a good address, the 2021s would provide a welcome change from the big, ripe – sometimes overripe – reds of 2019 and 2020. I don’t see sheer mass, or...