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Viñateros – a Spanish wine revolution

Julia Harding
Julia Harding MW
Wednesday 5 April 2017
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Viñatero is Spanish for ‘winegrower’, with the emphasis on the word grower, and this London tasting, bringing together seven UK importers and showing more than two hundred wines, was one of the most exciting I have been to in a long time. 

From Galicia in the green north west to Málaga in the sun-baked south, these wines ranged from what some might describe as ‘natural’ to others more conventionally made but the emphasis was firmly on origin, quality and authenticity. Winemaking make-up was rare.

The organisers refer in their introduction to the tasting booklet to the manifesto that came out...