Does dry-farming matter?

Sam and John Paul Cameron

The Deep Roots Coalition believes so, and Sam gathers some compelling evidence – including 63 wines, all dry-farmed on the west coast of the US. Above, Sam with John Paul Cameron, co-founder of the Deep Roots Coalition, in his (unirrigated) vineyard.

‘You DESTROY any terroir you have as soon as you irrigate’, roared Clément, wild-eyed, silverware clattering as he pounded his fist against the dining-room table.

It was early 2020 and the only French intern at a Barossa winery was standing on the hill that he was going to kill us on. Us being the American and Australian interns –...