A rebel in Valpolicella

Amarone, one of Italy's most famous wines, seems especially badly hit by the current economic situation, as outlined in Amarone – halting the decline?

I was therefore fascinated recently to meet one Valpolicella producer who has turned her back completely on Amarone, swayed not by market forces, but by conviction. Cecilia Trucchi of Villa Bellini is pictured here with her beloved bush vines. By treating her straight Valpolicella as the most important expression of terroir, she is currently a rare exception, but one who may well have followers in the future, restoring the credibility of the region.

Originally from a...