Bergström feels the heat

Josh Bergström was in London last month to present his wines at the American wine tasting of his UK importer Roberson. He treated me to my own private comparative tasting of his 2016s and 2017s, two of a consecutive series of Oregon’s five hottest vintages ever. (Old Stones Chardonnay 2017 was missing from the line-up because a bottle had been misplaced.) 

He was keen to demonstrate that he has worked out how to cope with the hot summers and warm, dry autumns that are so unlike...