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Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2007

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Walter Speller
Thursday 24 January 2013
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See Walter's feisty introduction to his two recent Brunello tastings and his notes on 130 2008 Brunellos. The tasting notes below represent the first comprehensive look at 2007 Brunello Riservas from this particularly ripe vintage. A full 87 wines are reviewed.

The image is of the Benedictine abbey of Sant'Antimo in the south of the Montalcino zone which gives its name to a DOC whose extent is identical to that of Brunello di Montalcino and officially allows international varieties.

Wines are listed alphabetically by producer (sur)name.

Altesino, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 16
Mid ruby with broad orange-tinged rim. Lifted cherry nose. Powerful, sweet cherry fruit and richly tannic. Pushes all buttons. (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2018
Angelini, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 14.5
Just mid ruby and mature looking. Very ripe and a little stewed. Lacks in definition. Cask sample? (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2018
Val di Suga, Vigna Spuntali Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 16

Mature, mid ruby with broad orange-tinged rim. Balsamic with a hint of eucalyptus. Extracted and very youthful. Big tannins. Still needs to integrate. (WS)

Drink 2016 – 2024
Antinori, Pian delle Vigne Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 16
Maturing mid-concentrated ruby with orange rim. Cherry liqueur and cinnamon bark on the nose. Enormous sweet concentration. If you like it big and bold. (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2018
Castello Banfi, Poggio all'Oro Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 16

Dark mature-looking ruby with narrow orange rim. Elegant fruit nose with hints of dried fruit and tobacco. Soft and open-knit palate with just the right dose of acidity. At its peak, it seems. (WS)

Drink 2013 – 2018
Castello Banfi, Poggio alle Mura Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 15

Dark, mature-looking ruby with brickstone rim. Like tucking into a Christmas cake. Very, very ripe. (WS)

Drink 2013 – 2016
Barbi, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 16.5
Mid ruby with broad orange-tinged rim. Mature, sweet and multilayered nose. Hints of liquorice and tobacco. Concentrated fruit and still quite young. Compact tannins underline a sweet long fruit finish. (WS)
Drink 2015 – 2024
Bellaria, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 15
Deep ruby with narrow orange rim. Fruitcake-dominated nose. Looks like the fruit was overripe when picked. Very sweet and dense and mouthfilling, but not very complex. A little dry on the finish. (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2018
Brizio, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 14.5
Mature-looking mid ruby with broad brickstone rim. Gingerbread and candied fruits and already dangerously oxidative on the palate. Starts to get tired. (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2015
Brunelli, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 16
Mid ruby with the beginning of orange. Subdued nose of cherry and orange rind. Lots of concentration but all neatly kept in check. Creamy and very sweet fruit finish with good tannic charge. Popular. (WS)
Drink 2014 – 2020
Gianni Brunelli, Le Chiuse di Sotto Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 16
Mid ruby with broad orange-tinged rim. Quite slow to open up. Very good concentration of sweet fruit, rich even. Could do with a little more acidity. (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2018
Camigliano, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 14.5
Concentrated, mature-looking ruby with orange rim. Very round and ripe and a little bit dull. (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2016
Campogiovanni (San Felice), Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 15
Deep ruby with orange rim. Quite heady nutty fruitcake nose. Very mouthfilling and sweet. Enormous density! (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2018
Canalicchio di Franco Pacenti, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 15.5
Maturing mid ruby with brickstone rim. Brooding but already mature. Quite a lot of tannins to chew on at the moment. (WS)
Drink 2015 – 2020
Canalicchio di Sopra, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 15.5
Very heavy bottle! Dark, mature-looking ruby. Very slow to emerge from the glass and same reluctance on the palate. Key word is sweet concentration. A little leathery. (WS)
Drink 2014 – 2020
Capanna, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 16
Very heavy bottle! Impenetrable dark ruby with orange tinges. Subdued with hints of shoe polish and rich strawberry jam. Quite intense and sweet on the palate with good acidity. Huge extract and in need of ageing. (WS)
Drink 2014 – 2022
Capanne Ricci, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 15
Dark, maturing ruby. Herb liqueur nose. Seems a little stewed, but there is acidity to keep it going. Not really complex. Quite drying tannins. (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2017
Caparzo, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 16 +
Concentrated ruby with the beginning of orange tinges. Cocoa and cherry on the nose. Maraschino cherry and damson fruit. Gripping tannins, but very good raw material. (WS)
Drink 2015 – 2024
Casanova di Neri, Cerretalto Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 16
Impenetrable, youthful ruby. Firmly pushing the oak button, but gets away with it. Upfront, internationally styled, with bags of sweet, ripe fruit and (still) dry finish. May work for some, not for others. (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2020
Castelgiocondo, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 15
Mid ruby with the beginning of orange on the rim. Sweet, earthy and a little closed. Bags of fruit on the palate. Very ripe but lacks a little definition. (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2018
Castello di Velona, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 16
Maturing mid ruby with broad orange rim. Cedar and dark fruit with lift. Youthful and rich but well shaped. No shy wine, this. (WS)
Drink 2016 – 2024
Castello Romitorio, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 17
Very dark ruby with orange tinges. Posh oak and brooding fruit nose. Sweet strawberry but not laid on too thickly. Firm structure, and succulent and fluent. Worth waiting for. (WS)
Drink 2016 – 2024
Cava d'Onice, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 16
Already mature-looking ruby with orange rim. Earthy, sweet and multilayered with cherry and notes of candied peel. Richly fruity, but the tannic core and acidity give a nice contrast. (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2022
Le Chiuse, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 15.5
Deep ruby with narrow orange rim. Pronounced sweet, jammy fruit nose. Quite jammy and extracted. Waves of big but ripe tannins. (WS)
Drink 2014 – 2020
Donatella Cinelli Colombini, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 16
Dark ruby with orange rim. Fine nose of oriental spice and brooding cherry. Real grip and with very ripe fruit and bold tannin. Ends warm. Ready now. (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2018
Citille di Sopra, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 15
Mature and impenetrable ruby with narrow orange rim. Dark and earthy. Quite sweet and extracted and powerful but might increase in complexity with age. (WS)
Drink 2016 – 2020
Collelceto, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 16
Mid ruby with broad, orange rim. Exotic spice and quite savoury. Showing the first signs of age. Mouthfilling, soft fruit picked up by acidity and grating tannins on the finish. Easy to like. For now. (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2018
La Collina dei Lecci, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 16.5
Quite developed mid ruby with broad brickstone-tinged rim. Slow to open up on the nose. Begins to show tertiary aromas. Fluent fruit palate with chewy tannins. Quite good. (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2018
Collosorbo, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 15
Mid ruby with orange tinges. Still quite compact and marked by oak. Rich, sweet and open knit and a little facile on the palate. (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2016
Colombaio, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 14
Impenetrable and already quite mature-looking ruby with orange rim. Full-blown fruitcake. There is acidity but this is already starting to look tired. This is never going to age well. (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2015
Conti Costanti, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 15
Mature-looking ruby with brickstone rim. Herb liqueur and cherry hints. Gingerbread and cherry fruit palate. Quite chunky. (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2018
Cupano, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 15.5
Almost impenetrable dark ruby with orange tinges. Very ripe and sweet and pronounced, perhaps even a little overripe and with huge extract. (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2020
Centolani, Donna Olga Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 15.5

Deep ruby with narrow brickstone rim. A little peppery on the nose and the first signs of tobacco. A little stubborn on the palate. Strikes a balance with the acidity. Ends quite warm. (WS)

Drink 2013 – 2020
Fanti, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 16
Deep ruby with orange rim. Stalky, ripe fruit. Quite rich palate but with depth. Sweet cherry and dried fruit. Intense finish. Not for the faint hearted. (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2018
Fattoi, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 15.5
Deep ruby with broad orange rim. Earthy and subdued on the nose, and big and powerful on the palate. Piles it high. (WS)
Drink 2016 – 2024
La Fornace, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 15
Deep ruby with orange rim. Savoury and quite compact. Intense and sweet and rich – not really the proper ingredients for ageing. Big tannins too. (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2018
Fornacina, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 15.5
Mature-looking mid ruby with orange rim. Compact and a little peppery. Hint of leather. Impressively rich in extract, quite thick, but with proper tannic stuffing to match. (WS)
Drink 2016 – 2024
La Fortuna, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 16.5
Deep ruby with orange-tinged rim. Quite pure fruit on the nose and only a hint of tobacco. Fluent, succulent fruit palate with quite powerful tannin. Real freshness and bite on the finish. Needs more time. (WS)
Drink 2016 – 2028
Fossacolle, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 14.5
Deep ruby with narrow orange rim. Pretty stalky and a hint of leather and liquorice. Seems a little overripe. (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2018
Centolani, Tenuta Friggiali Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 15.5

Mid ruby with orange rim. Very closed, hints of liquorice. Quite ripe fruit, but still got some life ahead of it. Big. (WS)

Drink 2013 – 2018
Fuligni, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 16.5
Mid ruby with narrow orange rim. Hints of tobacco leaf, but otherwise quite backward on the nose. Not so on the palate. Quite full bodied with dense, mouthfilling fruit. Big. (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2020
La Gerla, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 15.5
Dark mature-looking ruby. Balsamic nose. Spicy too. Fairly sweet and extracted. Rich finish of super-ripe fruit. (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2017
Innocenti, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 15
Deep and still youthful-looking ruby. Mellow, round and a little too easy going. Rich, but a little tame. (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2018
Lazzeretti, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 16
Concentrated ruby with orange rim. Fine oak and a hint of tobacco and gentle but concentrated fruit. Good acidity adding tension and lifespan. Consumer friendly. (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2018
La Lecciaia, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 15
Mature-looking mid ruby with broad brickstone tinged rim. A little grubby on the nose but with air shows savoury meaty and tobacco notes. Acidity keeps it lively, but no great complexity otherwise. (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2018
La Lecciaia, Vigna Manapetra Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 15
Mid ruby with broad orange-tinged rim. A little stalky and with hints of tobacco leaf. Lots of grainy tannin framing the sweet fruit. Not hugely complex. (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2018
La Magia, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 16.5
Dark ruby just beginning to show some orange tinges. A little bloody on the nose. Quite elegant palate weight and well balanced with crunchy tannins. Lots happening, and certainly facing a bright future. (WS)
Drink 2016 – 2026
La Mannella, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 15
Deep, concentrated ruby with narrow orange rim. Heady, sweet cherry compote. Rich and creamy on the finish. Could do with a little more tension and acidity, but certainly has huge concentration. (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2018
Marchesato degli Aleramici, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 15
Just mid ruby with broad orange rim. Earthy, rather than fruity on the nose. Gingerbread and dried cherry palate. Just manages the balance. Not very precise. (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2018
Máté, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 15.5
Mid ruby with broad orange-tinged rim. Savoury and a little leathery or is it just vegetal? Contrasting, intense sweet dried-fruit palate. Quite rich fruit palate but the nose seems a little unripe. (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2017
Mocali, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 15.5
Dark, mature-looking ruby with narrow orange rim. Lifted sweet cherry compote and just enough acidity to keep it going. Quite rich finish. (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2018
Molino di Sant'Antimo, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 15.5
Concentrated ruby with orange rim. Quite restrained nose showing a little nuttiness. Very mellow and soft and easy going. Too easy going, perhaps. (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2018
Silvio Nardi, Poggio Doria Riserva 2006 Brunello di Montalcino 16 +
Mid ruby with orange tinges. Hints of black bread, tobacco and dark fruit. More fruit driven on the palate and fantastic gripping tannin. Still a long way to go. (WS)
Drink 2016 – 2028
Silvio Nardi, Manachiara Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 16
Mid ruby with orange tinges. Very closed on the nose. Lots of sweet concentration, but unwilling to really open up. (WS)
Drink 2016 – 2020
Siro Pacenti, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 15
Deep ruby with narrow orange rim. Mellow and concentrated and could do with a little more acidity. A little flabby. (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2018
Padelletti, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 17
Very dark, maturing ruby. Very shy on the nose, only the merest hint of soft fruit. Lovely extract and depth and still quite gripping, unsettled (oak) tannin. Needs more time to integrate, but all parts are there. Long and juicy. (WS)
Drink 2016 – 2028
Piccini, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 14
Looks like a very old mature wine. Very sweet and oxidised. (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2015
Pinino, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 15.5
Very heavy bottle. Almost impenetrable dark ruby with narrow orange rim. Cherry and sweet strawberry fruit. No lack of concentration here. Lots of chewy tannins, but not something the rich fruit can’t handle. (WS)
Drink 2016 – 2024
La Poderina, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 16
Almost impenetrable, youthful-looking ruby. Vinous nose, but not immediately reminiscent of Sangiovese. Sweet strawberry and fruit. Lots of sweet extract and well built. Too youthful to approach now. (WS)
Drink 2015 – 2024
Poggio Antico, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 15
Deep ruby with orange tinges. Sweet and firmly in the dried-fruit corner. (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2017
Poggio dell'Aquila, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 16 +
Bright, mid ruby beginning to show some orange. Moroccan leather and a hint of bacon. Subdued fruit. Lots of concentration and length. Still needs to open up. (WS)
Drink 2016 – 2024
Poggio di Sotto, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 17
Very heavy bottle. Paleish burgundy look-alike. Undergrowth and sweet decay. Fragrant soft palate and well built, with a big tannic charge on the finish. But it does beg the question whether this would not have benefited more from an earlier release. (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2020
Poggio il Castellare, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 14.5
Lacklustre mid ruby with broad orange rim. Lots of extract, but looks a little tired. Drying finale. (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2016
Poggio Nardone, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 15.5
Impenetrable, mature-looking ruby with orange tinges. Savoury at first. Sweet cherry compote and hints of cedar. Sweet but succulent and with big tannins. Ends warm. Would be interesting to see how this benefits from ageing. (WS)
Drink 2014 – 2020
Le Potazzine, Riserva 2006 Brunello di Montalcino 16.5
Heavy bottle! Deep ruby, just beginning to show some age. Savoury, with a hint of leather and mouthfilling, ripe cherry fruit. Bags of extract and huge length. Integrated acidity pulls it together. (WS)
Drink 2016 – 2028
La Serena, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 15

Heavy bottle! Almost impenetrable dark ruby. Intense raspberry and cherry nose. Leathery too. Very thick and sweet and with huge length, but elegant it’s not. (WS)

Drink 2016 – 2024
La Rasina, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 15
Impenetrable dark ruby with narrow orange rim. Savoury, meaty opening. Very extracted and opulent and rich sweet finish. (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2016
Renieri, Bacci, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 15
Dark, maturing ruby with orange rim. Lots of dried-fruit flavours, but with some complexity. Drink over the next couple of years. (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2017
Ridolfi, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 15
Concentrated ruby with orange rim. Hint of horse saddle. Quite sweet fruit and a little one-dimensional. (WS)
Drink 2014 – 2016
San Filippo, Le Lucére Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 15
Concentrated ruby with orange tinges. Very ripe and concentrated, just not very complex or compelling and lacks a little tension. Very low acidity. (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2016
Sanlorenzo, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 15.5

Mid ruby with orange rim. Earthy and kitchen spices and with a layer of brooding candied fruit underneath. Lots of depth and concentration and well balanced. Not a shy wine by any measure. (WS)

Drink 2013 – 2020
San Polino, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 17.5 +
Deep maturing ruby with the beginning of orange. Fine, profound iron and cherry finely spiced, with a peppery edge. Not open by far, and none of the rich characteristics of the 2007 vintage. Fine acidity turning up on the finish, with a hit of dry, bitter tannins on the finish. Well-formed concentration. Great effort, but not ready yet. (WS) 14.5%
Drink 2016 – 2028
SassodiSole, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 15.5
Mid ruby with broad orange-tinged rim. A little rustic but multilayered. Hint of leather. Rich and very ripe fruit. Hedonistic and ready now. (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2018
Sesta, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 16
Heavy bottle! Maturing mid ruby with orange rim. Sweet strawberry fruit. Persistent on the palate, but not too thick. (WS)
Drink 2015 – 2024
Sesta di Sopra, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 14.5
Mid ruby with broad orange rim. Quite mature in colour and in aroma, with dried fruit taking the lead. A little oxidative too. Seems like time is running out for this wine. (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2015
Sesti, Phenomena Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 16
Just mid ruby with very broad orange rim. Quite developed on the nose and palate, and very round and ripe on the palate. Acidity just about manages to keep the tension. (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2018
Talenti, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 17
Mid ruby with broad orange rim. Pretty, sweet cherry fruit matched by succulent acidity and gripping tannins. Too young to approach really. (WS)
Drink 2016 – 2024
Tassi, Franci Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 17
Mature-looking mid ruby with broad orange-tinged rim. Serious, complex fruit and cedar nose. Elegant palate weight, crunchy tannins and elegant fruit. Not heavy or over extracted at all. (WS)
Drink 2016 – 2028
Terralsole, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 16 +
Very dark ruby with narrow orange rim. Fairly backward on the nose. Full bodied but well balanced with a generous dose of fruit, muscular grip and good acidity. This can age. (WS)
Drink 2015 – 2022
Tornesi, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 16
Just mid ruby with broad orange rim. Lifted earthy cherry. Captivating. Succulent cherry fruit. Waves of rustic tannin. A little biting on the finish, but has real interest. (WS)
Drink 2014 – 2018
Uccelliera, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 15.5
Almost impenetrable ruby with orange tinges. Meaty and quite rich. Persistent and quite mouthfilling dried fruit, but not dull. Drink now before it gets tired. (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2017
Valdicava, Madonna del Piano Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 16
Quite dark ruby with orange tinges. Perfumed and heady. Sweetly concentrated but there is complexity and just enough acidity. Very young. (WS)
Drink 2016 – 2024
La Velona, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 15 +
Mid ruby with broad orange rim. A little stalky and earthy at first. Monolithic and sweet and needs age to get more definition. (WS)
Drink 2015 – 2020
Villa i Cipressi, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 15.5
Mid ruby with broad orange-tinged rim. Very subdued on the nose. Lots of concentration and good acidity, but lacks a little bit in definition. (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2020
Villa Poggio Salvi, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 17
Mature-looking mid ruby with broad orange-tinged rim. Slightly nutty and tertiary on the nose and very slow for the fruit to emerge. Same reluctance on the palate, but linear and well structured with a good dose of acidity and powdery tannin. Very long and not heavy at all. A little closed for now, so hold on to this. (WS)
Drink 2015 – 2026
Vitanza, Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 15
Impenetrably dark ruby and only just the beginning of orange tinges. Lifted oak and cherry and dried fruit. Catchy, internationally moulded. Generous palate with huge extract and with a creamy, dense fruit finish. Less would be more. Will this age well? (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2018
Vitanza, Andretta Riserva 2007 Brunello di Montalcino 15.5
Very dark ruby with orange-tinged rim. Fine, balsamic nose with hints of liquorice and spice. A good mouthful of fruit framed by firm tannin. Drink now. (WS)
Drink 2013 – 2018