Burgundy 2014 – C

Sommelier James Fryer's picture shows Vosne-Romanée early one winter's morning from the bottom of the Romanée-Conti slope. 

I cannot think of any Burgundian grower more energetic than François Carillon in Puligny-Montrachet. Each of my visits there over the last three or four years has been to a building site, whose scope seems ever more ambitious every year. It’s easy to find the domaine; just look for the crane.

This is the viticulture brother of the two who used to run Domaine Louis Carillon. Winemaker Jacques is a quieter character in...