DOMAINE DENIS BACHELET, Gevrey-Chambertin
JR: Everyone previously had loved Denis’ Bourgogne Rouge 2016 but, much to Denis’ consternation, it was not showing well for us – on a leaf day. Gorgeous Charmes. And others. Nicolas is celebrating his tenth year working with his father.
30% down. Blend of casks from Gevrey.
Bitter cherries – tastes of a liqueur somehow. Heady nose but a bitter, dry end. Needs a bit more flesh. Late malo. But I should point out that Denis observed that on other days this had seduced other tasters. I have probably under-scored it. (JR)
Drink
2020
–
2024
Quite high up the slope above Brochon. Racked after malo at the beginning June.
Heady perfume – very attractive and charming. Very silky tannins. GV (JR)
Drink
2019
–
2024
85-year-old vines. 1.5 ha total.
Very fresh and fine – really dances on the palate. Red cherries and oodles of charm. Really refined. Crunchy and long. ‘Very Pinot.’ (JR)
Drink
2022
–
2032
Since 2011. Serious depth but wonderful ripe Pinot fruit. Very intense and chock full of smooth tannins and gorgeousness. So juicy! Purity. Great balance. (JR)
Drink
2024
–
2036
50% new oak. Vines mainly planted in the 1920s. Cool spot next to Mazis and Chambertin so usually a bit closed.
A little oak on the nose (the sample is a blend of barrels). Very deep crimson. Lots of juice and sweet charm though not as fresh as the Evocelles. Still quite chewy but very long. (JR)
Drink
2025
–
2038
Normally eight barrels, just six in 2016. 50% new oak.
Serious stuff. Layers and depth. Extremely rich and concentrated but still with a sweet liqueur sort of depth. Rich and one of his best Charmes. Fabulous roundness and layers and length. Clean and long. Lots of sweet charm but still very refreshing. (JR)
Drink
2025
–
2040
DOMAINE JEAN-CLAUDE BACHELET, St-Aubin
Wax capsules. Grr. Back label is a mine of information. East-facing vineyard on limestone planted in 1974, 1988 and 2000 and farmed ‘following biodynamic practices’. Aged for 18 months in oak on the fine lees.
Attractive blend of smoky and rich. Quite forward and very winning and ripe. Perfect for early drinking. GV (JR)
13.5%
Drink
2017
–
2020
£120 per case of 6 ib Berry Bros & Rudd
South-facing vineyard planted between 1930 and 2008(!) on compact clay.
Open and even a little sweet on the nose. Rather soft and easy. Not the most concentrated and certainly relatively low in acidity. But useful for those in a hurry. Hint of pimento powder and broad ripe fruit. (JR)
13%
Drink
2017
–
2021
£186 per case of 6 ib Berry Bros & Rudd
DOMAINE BACHELET-MONNOT, Dezize-lès-Maranges
Orange peel, ripe green apple, and a lovely stony character on the palate which gives authentic burgundian minerality. Ripe and generous fruit, lovely chalky mouthfeel. (RH)
Drink
2018
–
2026
£175 per case of 6 ib Davy's Wine Merchants
Cool, citrus nose. Very edgy and with a green streak. Not that concentrated but very refreshing. Cool and lively. (JR)
Drink
2020
–
2026
£225 per case of 12 ib Justerini & Brooks
Solid, straightforward nose. Ticks the boxes. Is not too flashy nor too oaky but doesn’t have that many distinguishing marks. Light finish. (JR)
Drink
2021
–
2027
£385 per case of 12 ib Justerini & Brooks
Dense and lively with real nerve. Excellent vibrancy. Lots to chew on but great balance for future development. Not rich but extremely refreshing and well constituted. Just a tiny bit light on the finish. (JR)
Drink
2024
–
2034
£600 per case of 12 ib Justerini & Brooks
Edge of something floral on top of sweet, ripe, rather bumptious fruit. Not the subtlest but certainly delivers classical citrus refreshment. (JR)
Drink
2024
–
2034
£635 per case of 12 ib Justerini & Brooks
Mid crimson. Precise, mossy and very concentrated. Real extract and density. Lots of life. One of the more assertive Maranges I have come across. Spicy red fruit. QGV (JR)
Drink
2021
–
2026
£215 per case of 12 ib Justerini & Brooks
Quite juicy and bouncy. Lots of grip. But lighter than the Maranges Fussière 2016 from this address. Correct rather than thrilling. Slightly dusty fruit. (JR)
Drink
2022
–
2027
£215 per case of 12 ib Justerini & Brooks
DOMAINE BALLOT-MILLOT, Meursault
JR: Delightfully high-quality whites, albeit in much smaller quantities than usual.
Pale straw. A little muted when tasted just after Niellon’s Chassagnes. Correct and a little austere. (JR)
Drink
2022
–
2028
Very juicy and neat but far from fleshy. Chalky chewy finish. (JR)
Drink
2023
–
2029
Tight and focused. Not as rich as usual Perrières – maybe it’s the vineyard in 2016? Positively restrained! (JR)
Drink
2024
–
2030
Light and fresh and very appetising. Almost aperitif style! Very nice balance. (JR)
Drink
2023
–
2030
Pale blueish crimson. Light nose. This was rather overshadowed by Vincent Girardin’s version tasted immediately beforehand. A little lean. May take on weight but a tad skinny at the moment. (JR)
Drink
2024
–
2032
DOMAINE DANIEL ET JULIEN BARRAUD, Vergisson
RH: Some pretty good scores here considering the prices.
Nutty aromas with ripe apple, preserved lemon and a nice saline quality. Pleasing complexity for an inexpensive white burgundy. (RH)
Drink
2017
–
2020
£100 per case of 12 ib Lea & Sandeman
A touch of buttery character that contrasts nicely with biting acidity and fleshy, full body. Classic Mâconnais style – ripe fruit, full body, yet good acidic outline. (RH)
Drink
2017
–
2019
£120 per case of 12 ib Lea & Sandeman
Cooked apple sauce, some sweet spices and nicely grippy palate to give shape. Dry, smooth, full. (RH)
Drink
2017
–
2021
£130 per case of 12 ib Lea & Sandeman
Buttery and spicy with lots of ripe citrus fruit and creamy texture on the palate. Full and verging on flabby. (RH)
Drink
2017
–
2022
£150 per case of 12 ib Lea & Sandeman
Saline, but slightly musty too. Lots of non-fruit complexity on offer, but the flavours don't seem entirely clean to me. (RH)
Drink
2017
–
2022
£145 per case of 12 ib Lea & Sandeman
Butter and cream on the nose, followed by ripe apple and a nice pinch of sea salt to leave a savoury aftertaste. (RH)
Drink
2018
–
2023
£195 per case of 12 ib Lea & Sandeman
Musty oily nose and overripe apple fruit. Lots of flavour, but it has the structure of melted ice-cream. (RH)
Drink
2018
–
2024
£225 per case of 12 ib Lea & Sandeman
Spicy and rich and with better brightness than their Sur La Roche, but it still tends towards the fuller side, verging on overripe on the finish. (RH)
Drink
2018
–
2022
£230 per case of 12 ib Lea & Sandeman
Ripe stone-fruit aromas, rich and full on the palate. No significant oak influence allows the fruit to shine. Rich, full structure. (RH)
Drink
2018
–
2022
£250 per case of 12 ib Lea & Sandeman
DOMAINE GHISLAINE BARTHOD, Chambolle-Musigny
JR: Notable for...