California's other Cabernet valley

Even in a theoretical future dramatically reshaped by climate change, it seems unlikely for Napa to lose its pre-eminence as the home of California’s most beloved Cabernet Sauvignons. Though the spotlight seems destined to remain trained on the ever-more-rarefied Napa, outside the gilt-edged glare of that performance, an understudy diligently waits in the wings, working twice as hard for half as much recognition.

Though its plantings of bordeaux varieties and Chardonnay are proportionally similar to Napa (with a bit more Chardonnay and a greater predominance...