From Kanga Rouge to Kangarouge

‘It’s not dead', says Oz Clarke hopefully as he eases the cork in one piece from his precious bottle of 1978 Kanga Rouge Coonawarra Shiraz.

‘This', he says, clutching the bottle he’s been waiting 40 years to open, ‘is a moment that has got triumph and disaster writ large upon it in pretty much equal measure.’

His hopeful smile begins to fade as he pours the Shiraz into two glasses and sees the brown, muddy colour of the wine. He sniffs, and the smile becomes a...