Rebula – there's gold in them thar hills

Unless you are on the road and standing in front of an EU road sign or a stone waymarker like the one shown here, it’s pretty hard to see the border between Brda in Slovenia and Collio in Italy. Even the names of the two regions mean the same: ‘hills’. 

Several producers have vineyards in both countries, which is not a problem now, barring some bureaucratic idiosyncrasies to do with appellations and labelling, but must have been a nightmare when borders were tightly...