The wines of Bulli-land

Having spent quite a substantial part of 21 consecutive summers in the western Languedoc, we are finding ourselves straying south of the Spanish border with increasing frequency – mainly to enjoy the much more varied and sophisticated food that's available there. Cassoulet v El Bulli acolytes sprinkled liberally over the Costa Brava basically – not much of a contest. See, for example, Richard Neville's recent reviews of Ca l'Enric,  Miramar and Casamar in Your views.)

The wines made in the very far north-eastern corner of Spain, in the DO Empordà, have also been improving quite considerably. This steep, traditionally...