Tokara wines released at last

The first thing to say about the trio of wines finally released from South Africa  banker G T Ferreira’s luxury winery Tokara is that of course they are a teensy bit of a letdown. No wines could possibly live up to 10 years of pre-publicity. But they are pretty good, or at least two of them are.

On a dramatic hillside between two of South Africa’s most admired wineries Thelema and Rustenberg, Tokara really does qualify for the over-used epithet ‘no expense spared’. When they needed cooler sites for some white wines, they used NASA technology and small aircraft to...