Volcanic Wine Awards | The Jancis Robinson Story | 🎁 25% off annual & gift memberships

Why are modern restaurants so noisy?

Saturday 1 July 2006 • 5 min read

It took me far longer to track down the most suitable person to answer the question numerous FT readers have been putting to me for some time now – why are so many modern restaurants so noisy? – than to think of the most appropriate restaurant in which to meet.

In the end, thanks to a tip from the man responsible for the rebuilding of the concert hall within the Royal Festival Hall and all its attendant acoustic challenges, I got in touch with Alan Saunders, the softly-spoken, 58 year-old managing director of his own firm of acoustics consultants.

Saunders’ company has an international reputation for dealing with the aural challenges not just of numerous modern buildings such as the entrances to hotels and office buildings (he worked on the boardroom in Enron’s  London HQ, for example, and in the end his company was left with an outstanding debt of only £1,500, he told me proudly) but also, most recently, to the possible noise implications from a proposed oil pipe line in Azerbaijan on ancient cave paintings in a part of the countryside it will pass through.

What I didn’t realise as we sat down to lunch in Kensington Place, a restaurant as well known for its continually high noise levels as for the accomplished cooking of my colleague Rowley Leigh, is that Saunders is an enthusiastic cook, describing himself as ‘a bit of a tyrant in my own kitchen with only his 21 year old daughter ever allowed to help,’ and that this was his first visit to what has come to be known by its many regulars as KP.

As we sat down just after 1pm the restaurant was more than half full and already quite noisy – something Saunders chose to explain even before I could him ask any questions. “Perhaps, not surprisingly, it’s the acoustics I notice first whenever I walk into any building. Others may look at the space and find particular charms but I am always struck right away by whether a building is acoustically good or not. And it is trying to convince my clients of this, and its importance on those who will use the building in the future, that is my biggest professional challenge and frustration.”

“But let me start with a few generalisations. The most important is that given the number of people who are already in this space, and I reckon that there must be about 80 or more, whatever they were doing in here would generate a pretty high level of noise. It is not like this simply because it is a restaurant. The most influential factor in the noise level here and in so many other restaurants is the space and the proximity of so many tables within it. The restaurateur has done this not just to create an ambience by allowing as many people to see one another as possible but also for sound financial reasons which I fully appreciate. If you were to halve the tables in here you would halve the volume but you would have to double the prices, I expect. But the effect would be significant. I reckon with half the tables in here you would cut the noise level by 10/15 decibels which is about what you achieve when you close the front door of your house on the traffic noise outside.”

As he tucked into an imaginative first course off the set lunch menu, a salad of wild asparagus and mousseron mushrooms topped with a poached egg, Saunders continued, “But what will happen pretty soon with such a concentration of people as close together as this in a restaurant is that what we refer to as ‘the Cocktail Party Effect’ will take hold. That begins to happen when, invariably induced by a glass of wine or two, people begin to talk louder and louder and then, to make themselves heard against the increasing volume their voices just continue to rise until many of us have to resort, consciously or otherwise, to lip-reading.” Saunders was to be proved right and the second half of our lunch took place against a much noisier background than the first.

Having discovered that Saunders had also been chairman of the Association of Noise Consultants, I asked him what practical advice he could offer to those who wanted to enjoy the conversation as much and as easily as the food and wine.

“The important thing to remember about acoustics is that it is a fairly new profession and I think it is one that is getting a lot of attention at the moment because there is no doubt that as people age their hearing suffers, just as their eyesight does. People suddenly become aware of this and want solutions. But in a restaurant setting these are invariably difficult to introduce effectively because either the architect or the interior designer has not bothered to consider the subject or, if they have, because the restaurateur does not have any budget to deal with what is, in reality, an invisible problem and one that only affects a certain percentage of his customers.”

But would tablecloths, curtains, an abundance of soft furnishings and that old but unscientific tactic of sticking pieces of felt under the restaurant’s tables have any effect I asked Saunders? “On their own each of these has little effect. Collectively, and only collectively, they do help but for example soft floor coverings don’t do much because the floor is then covered by tables which in turn have to be covered by sound absorbent tablecloths to maintain the effect.”

“Let me deal with the physics, briefly. In any room there is direct sound, perceived exclusively by the listener at no more than 1.5 metres from the speaker and at distances greater than this, reverberant sound, which you hear more of the further away you are from the speaker. This combination, plus the consequences of the cocktail party effect, means that the restaurateur is basically up against it. No form of intervention will completely control the problem only make it better although any form of minimalist interior design will only make it worse than it need be.”

“You can only reduce direct sound by putting the listener further from the speaker, the very opposite of why people come to restaurants, or by introducing a screen between them.” Taking my notebook, Saunders drew a diagram of the restaurant with two floor-to-ceiling screens in place, one at either end, which would do just that. “These could be glass but if they were material they would absorb the sound much better as would some banquette seating.”

“The amount of reverberant sound is related to how acoustically hard the surfaces in the restaurant are. Today, most modern interior design invariably incorporates glass, metal and plasterboard which only absorb sound at low frequencies and, unfortunately in the frequencies associated with the intelligibility of speech, these reflect sound almost completely.” To prove his point, Saunders pushed the restaurant’s glass exterior and added “This just bounces the sound round and round.”

“To absorb sound a room needs soft materials and for these to be most effective they need to be on the walls or ceiling where they are uncluttered. Acoustic foams, mineral or rockwool, glass wool (like loft insulation) all have good acoustic absorption, that is they do not reflect much of the sound which hits them and to-day, to make them aesthetically acceptable, they can be placed behind perforated plasterboard, timber or metal panels. Also, again unlike here, anything that the designer or restaurateur can do to diffuse the sound by using the shape of the room, or surfaces within it, to reflect the sound as much as possible and in as many directions as possible will also help. This is the principle used in the design of concert halls and recording studios but contoured artefacts, such as those on the walls of TGI Fridays do the job, too.”

“The moral of all this, “ Saunders concluded with a smile, “is that the old-fashioned Indian restaurant with banquette seating, flock wallpaper and thick velvet curtains gave a much better acoustic environment for eating than so many modern restaurant designs today.”

Become a member to continue reading
JancisRobinson.com 25th anniversaty logo

Celebrating 25 years of the world’s most trusted wine community

In honour of our anniversary, enjoy 25% off all annual and gift memberships for a limited time.

Use code HOLIDAY25 to join our community of wine experts and enthusiasts. Valid through 1 January.

会员
$135
/year
每年节省超过15%
适合葡萄酒爱好者
  • 存取 286,962 条葡萄酒点评 & 15,835 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
核心会员
$249
/year
 
适合收藏家
  • 存取 286,962 条葡萄酒点评 & 15,835 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
  • 提前 48 小时获取最新葡萄酒点评与文章
专业版
$299
/year
供个人葡萄酒专业人士使用
  • 存取 286,962 条葡萄酒点评 & 15,835 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
  • 提前 48 小时获取最新葡萄酒点评与文章
  • 可将最多 25 条葡萄酒点评与评分 用于市场宣传(商业用途)
商务版
$399
/year
供葡萄酒行业企业使用
  • 存取 286,962 条葡萄酒点评 & 15,835 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
  • 提前 48 小时获取最新葡萄酒点评与文章
  • 可将最多 250 条葡萄酒点评与评分 用于市场宣传(商业用途)
Pay with
Visa logo Mastercard logo American Express logo Logo for more payment options
Join our newsletter

Get the latest from Jancis and her team of leading wine experts.

By subscribing you agree with our Privacy Policy and provide consent to receive updates from our company.

More Nick on restaurants

Lilibet's raw fish bar
Nick on restaurants 周六午餐有什么特别之处?这是一个关于在梅费尔最新开业餐厅享用午餐的故事。非常精致! 40多年来,这一直是我一周中最喜欢的一餐。事实上...
Sylt with beach and Strandkörbe
Nick on restaurants 年度美食盛宴回顾。上图为德国叙尔特岛 (Sylt),2025年7月为尼克 (Nick) 提供了过多的美食享受。 每年这个时候...
Poon's dining room in Somerset House
Nick on restaurants 一位女儿重新唤起了对她父母深受喜爱的中餐厅的回忆。 潘氏这个姓氏与酒店业和中式烹饪界有着悠久的渊源。 从比尔·潘 (Bill...
Alta keg dispense
Nick on restaurants 在伦敦市中心最繁忙的快餐聚集地之一,一家新餐厅深受西班牙风味影响。 勇敢地穿过伦敦西区摄政街 (Regent Street)...

More from JancisRobinson.com

View from Smith Madrone on Spring Mountain
Free for all 需求和价格都在下降。本文的一个版本由金融时报 发表。上图为11月初从史密斯·马德罗内 (Smith Madrone)...
Albert Canela and Mariona Vendrell of Succes Vinicola.jpg
Wines of the week 一款温暖你冬日的桃红酒, 起价 £17.30,$19.99。上图为苏塞斯酒庄的阿尔伯特·卡内拉 (Albert Canela) 和玛丽奥娜...
The Overshine Collective
Tasting articles 这是詹西斯 (Jancis) 最近西海岸公路之旅中品评的第二批葡萄酒。上图为新成立的超越集体 (Overshine Collective)...
Les Crus Bourgeois logos
Tasting articles 经典、实惠的波尔多葡萄酒,为享受而酿造,并为独立、可靠且定期更新的分级制度而精选。 关于这个年份我们发布的所有内容,请参见 波尔多 2023...
Glasses of Cape Mentelle red wine on a tasting mat
Tasting articles 本月的新加坡精选主要来自西澳大利亚,包括一个精美的开普门特尔 (Cape Mentelle) 赤霞珠 (Cabernet Sauvignon...
Ch Pichon Baron © Serge Chapuis
Tasting articles 波尔多列级名庄联盟 (Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux) 在伦敦举办的品鉴会让我们首次品尝到这些成品酒款...
View from Le Ripi towards Monte Amiata
Inside information 布鲁内洛农民在 2025 年从未知道大自然会给他们带来什么。然而他们以某种方式应对了,甚至声称这个年份比 2024 年更好。上图是从勒里皮...
AdVL Smart Traveller's Guides covers
Book reviews 六本精美的指南,为想要获得实地建议的葡萄酒爱好者提供关于在哪里喝什么和吃什么的信息。 智慧旅行者葡萄酒指南 波尔多,作者 乔治·欣德尔...
Wine inspiration delivered directly to your inbox, weekly
Our weekly newsletter is free for all
By subscribing you're confirming that you agree with our Terms and Conditions.