Over the last few years, echoing trends across the Atlantic, there has been a crescendo of noise about German wine in the UK. Tastings have been more frequent and more dynamic. There are increasing numbers of modern, well-designed brands. Riesling has become a tattoo. And Spätburgunder has found a new champion in the shape of Master of Wine Anne Krebiehl, whose MW dissertation examined the potential of premium-quality examples of that variety.
In April, she hosted a tasting of several favourite Spätburgunders as part of an event called G Major, designed to celebrate everything exciting about German wine. She...