56 Clos de Vougeot 2008s

Nearly 60 grand cru burgundies in one tasting session is rare, to say the least. Though nearly 60 burgundies of any sort in an upper, non-air-conditioned room on a very hot day in London is asking a lot of both the tasters and the tasted.

But I certainly don't want to look this fascinating gift horse in the mouth. It was supplied by diligent work on the part of Fine & Rare Wines one afternoon early this month when they opened 56 different 2008 Clos de Vougeots for a dozen or so of us to taste. Even better, the tasting...