Bordeaux 2013 – the levelling vintage

For what can be said about Bordeaux that has not been said before? Every year, the en primeur campaign generates reams of commentary, analysis, opinion and debate, as befits this most venerated of wine regions. 

Recently, controversy has been rumbling over the perceived dysfunctionality of a system designed for consumers but seemingly now of principal benefit to château owners. As prices have steadily (and in some cases, dramatically) risen, their value has often not been sustained. This has resulted in recent vintages' being...