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Burgundy 2010 D–J

Wednesday 25 January 2012
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See Burgundy 2010 – a complete guide to our coverage – not just tasting notes but much, much more.

Here is the second of our final four tranches totalling about 2,000 tasting notes on Burgundy's most attractive 2010s. The notes below are grouped by producer, alphabetically by (sur)name, whites before reds and wines roughly ascending in grandeur.

DOMAINE PIERRE DAMOY

Red
Quite dark crimson. Damson fruit. Dry finish. Nice unforced fruit. Pure and dry. (JR)
Drink: 2015 – 2023
Price: £210 per case of 6 ib Flint
Red
Sweet and candified and a tad too easy and jagged. Not the purest expression. Chewy finish. (JR)
Drink: 2015 – 2024
Price: £450 per case of 6 ib Flint
Red
Deep crimson. Big and deep and a good effort but pretty dry on the end. Needs a bit more juice in the middle. (JR)
Drink: 2016 – 2026
Price: £545 per case of 6 ib Flint

DOMAINE DANIEL DAMPT – MAISON DAMPT

White
This is the négoce label used by Jean Defaix and Daniel Dampt (who is Jean Defaix's son-in-law).
Unlike the Dom Jean Defaix wines, this one is oaked. Much more savoury. Not more concentrated than the Lys but definitely more complex. This has a sweet/sour character that needs time but the depth and length are impressive – it's just less winning right now than Les Lys. (JH)
Drink: 2015 – 2023
Price: £360 per case ib Bibendum
White
Dusty lemon, classic Chablis – lightly chalky texture. Good depth, lively and long. GV (JH)
Drink: 2013 – 2018
Price: £97.04 per case ib Haynes Hanson & Clark
White
More concentration than the straight Chablis, a little more salty. Ripe and yet very crisp on the palate. Full in the mouth and long. Concentrated (low yields) and very impressive for the price. 75% malo completed and 3 g/l RS, hence that roundness. Très spécial, M Dampt says. GV (JH)
Drink: 2014 – 2020
Price: £118 per case ib Haynes Hanson & Clark
White
This too is rich and a touch honeyed. More like a Beaune white than a Chablis in its density. (JH)
Drink: 2013 – 2018
Price: £118 per case ib Haynes Hanson & Clark

DOMAINE VINCENT DAMPT

White
Absolutely archetypal apples and cream, soft and rounded on the palate, light weight but with texture giving dimension. (RH)
Drink: 2013 – 2018
Price: £155 per case ib Corney & Barrow
White
Oldest vines, giving the lowest yields of his premiers crus. You can taste the concentration – layers of slate and citrus. Chalky mouthfeel, Tight, refreshing, gastronomic. (RH)
Drink: 2013 – 2019
Price: £165 per case ib Corney & Barrow
White
Tighter and more restrained in style, more citric than the other Dampt premiers crus. Delicate, crystalline. (RH)
Drink: 2013 – 2018
Price: £170 per case ib Corney & Barrow
White
Oaked. Retains the Chablis shimmer beneath its voluptuous layers of spice and cream. Very successful, finely judged example. Great purity of fruit and warmth on the length. (RH)
Drink: 2014 – 2020
Price: £300 per case ib Corney & Barrow

DOMAINE VINCENT DANCER

White
Fine and silky and refined though by no means concentrated! GV (JR)
Drink: 2013 – 2016
Price: £125 per case ib Justerini & Brooks
White
Some honey on the nose. Racy and with real structure. Great stuff! GV (JR)
Drink: 2013 – 2018
Price: £245 per case ib Justerini & Brooks
White
A bit more concentrated than the village wine. Silky and dense and beautifully polished. Very well done. (JR)
Drink: 2013 – 2020
Price: £435 per case ib Justerini & Brooks
Red
Cool nose. A bit austere. (JR)
Drink: 2015 – 2018
Price: £100 per case ib Justerini & Brooks
Red
Rather stewed fruit on the nose. Can’t really see enough freshness here. (JR)
Drink: 2015 – 2020
Price: £380 per case ib Justerini & Brooks

DOMAINE HENRI DARNAT

White
Mineral and slaty. Almost wincing acidity, but has the weight of fruit to handle it. Fine, linear, austere but not unapproachable. (RH)
Drink: 2013 – 2018
Price: £250 per case ib Corney & Barrow
White
Monopole. Smoke, powerful chalky texture, more concentration than the Clos du Domaine. Intense. Tight. Not giving much away. (RH)
Drink: 2014 – 2018
Price: £365 per case ib Corney & Barrow
White
Worlds apart from his Meursaults – much bigger on the nose, perhaps counter-intuitively. Has saline acidity and brisk, green citrus fruit, but is definitely more generous. (RH)
Drink: 2012 – 2018
Price: £410 per case ib Corney & Barrow

DOMAINE DARVIOT-PERRIN

White
Cool. Clean, very revitalising. Crystal clear in fact. Lovely light touch. Refined. QGV (JR)
Drink: 2013 – 2016
Price: £72 per case of 6 ib Howard Ripley
White
Seems lean after the Rijckaert wines, initially at least. Tight and chalky, dry and palate-awakening. Oak comes through on the finish then a lemon purity pulls on to a lingering aftertaste. (JH)
Drink: 2014 – 2020
Price: £390 per case ib Clarion
White
Racy and lively and just soars on the palate. Lots of acidity but good fruit concentration too. So long. Well done! (JR)
Drink: 2013 – 2018
Price: £144 per case of 6 ib Howard Ripley, £150 per case of 6 ib Armit
White
Racy and quite delicate. Good depths too. Quite fine and long. (JR)
Drink: 2014 – 2019
Price: £264 per case of 6 ib Howard Ripley
White
Lively, penetrating citrus and mineral. Intense, almost a touch sour (grapefruit pith?) on the palate. Taut, not especially rich but persistent with a savoury clean finish. (JH)
Drink: 2015 – 2020
Price: £550 per case ib Clarion
White
High toned but good concentration. One of the tarter Perrières. (JR)
Drink: 2016 – 2024
Price: £295 per case of 6 ib Armit
White
Very racy indeed – so much so it is almost fizzing! Difficult to assess at this stage but very long so probably fine. (JR)
Drink: 2016 – 2026
Price: £360 per case of 6 ib Armit
Red
Firm light raspberry red. Very charming floral nose without any ersatz sweetness. Utter lightness of touch. Finishes with just a little kick but very expressive of 2010 Côte de Beaune. GV (JR)
Alcohol: 12%
Drink: 2012 – 2015
Price: £72 per case of 6 ib Howard Ripley
Red
Delicate dark fruit. Silky sweet and more red-fruited in the palate. Really very silky and refined with a return to the darker savoury fruit on the finish. (JH)
Drink: 2014 – 2020
Price: £168 per case ib Clarion
Red
Dark and medium deep crimson. Fresh and peppery on the nose. Lightish in the middle, fine tannins and dryish finish. On the slender side but persistent. (JH)
Drink: 2015 – 2021
Price: £273 per case ib Clarion
Red
Pale crimson. Rather muted nose. But lovely fresh fruit on the palate. Good integrity even if quite light. Racy. True. (JR)
Drink: 2014 – 2018
Price: £99 per case of 6 ib Howard Ripley
Red
Juicy and fresh and very lively in a cherry cough-drop idiom. Frank but a tiny bit light. Fades a bit on the finish. (JR)
Drink: 2014 – 2029
Price: £130 per case of 6 ib Armit

DOMAINE DEBRAY

White
Light nose. Simple pear fruit and less pronounced acidity than one might expect for this combination of vintage and appellation. Nothing wrong with this but nothing very exciting either. (JR)
Alcohol: 13%
Drink: 2012 – 2014
White
Good precision on the nose. And reasonable ripeness and intensity. Flirtatious and lively. Satisfying for the short to medium term.  (JR)
Drink: 2012 – 2015
White
Pale gold. Light nose. Solid stuff and a bit stolid to boot. This would disappoint no one but is not exactly exciting. Not fat though. Fine, lightly bitter citrus-peel character. (JR)
Drink: 2013 – 2016
Red
Pale, which is fine, but really quite thin and dull, which is not. (JR)
Alcohol: 13%
Drink: 2012 – 2014
Red
Pale raspberry red.  Pure, piercing fruit. Light but very honest with an attractive sweetness on the end. Far from complex but very pleasing. A good introduction to the charms of light red burgundy.  (JR)
Drink: 2013 – 2017
Red
Lightly earthy nose with some crunchy fruit and grainy texture. A little chewy on the finish but overall quite light for a Pommard. Sinewy and quite sleek. Wait a a while, but not too long, for this. (JR)
Drink: 2014 – 2018

DOMAINE BERNARD DEFAIX

White
Rather muted nose. Dampened aromas and flavour. Stolid. (JR)
Drink: 2014 – 2017
Price: £128 per case ib Flint

DOMAINE JEAN DEFAIX

White
Dusty but so alive. Has that slight chalky texture of classic Chablis but also very good length for a straight Chablis. GV (JH)
Drink: 2012 – 2016
Price: £90 per case ib Bibendum
White
Harvested after the rain therefore softer. Gentle, very fluid but retains a fine minerality and length and a tingly aftertaste – spicy but in terms of texture rather than flavour. (JH)
Drink: 2013 – 2017
Price: £160 per case ib Bibendum
White
Harvested before the rain, more concentrated. Very different on the nose from the Côte de Lechet – much more salty but also a note of apricots. Lovely purity and concentration allied with ripeness and richness of texture in a Chablis context. Delicious and VGV. (JH)
Drink: 2014 – 2020
Price: £160 per case ib Bibendum

DOMAINE CHRISTOPHE DENIZOT

White

Côte d’Or savour here. Just a tad bland. (JR)

Drink: 2012 – 2015
Price: £54 per case of 6 ib Howard Ripley
Red

Pale ruby. A bit edgy and vegy on the nose. Light and tart. Not a primeur candidate. Astringent. (JR)

Drink: 2013 – 2015
Price: £51 per case of 6 ib Howard Ripley

JEAN-YVES DEVEVEY – DOMAINE JEAN-YVES DEVEVEY

White
Very light nose. Marked acidity but pretty ungenerous. Lacks flesh. (JR)
Drink: 2013 – 2015
Price: £117 per case of 12 ib Berry Bros & Rudd
White

Light and racy and ticks the boxes but it’s not thrilling. Except for introducing me to a premier cru of which I was previously ignorant. Lots of astringency. (JR)

Drink: 2014 – 2017
Price: £348 per case of 12 ib Berry Bros & Rudd
White

Tight and taut. Needs to unwind a bit but all the elements are there. A little severe at the moment. Not a bad buy. (JR)

Drink: 2014 – 2017
Price: £240 per case of 12 ib Berry Bros & Rudd

DOMAINE DE LA DOUAIX

Red
There’s a slightly rude, raw element to this, but at least it has masses of (very slightly dry) fruit. Very sincere. GV (JR)
Drink: 2014 – 2018
Price: £120 per case ib Lea & Sandeman
Red
Very deep crimson. Very raw, almost rhubarby nose. Sweet fruit. Grainy texture. Just a tad unsubtle. (JR)
Drink: 2014 – 2018
Price: £147 per case ib Lea & Sandeman
Red
Milder and more malty than the Terres Nobles bottling. Drying finish. But very clean, crystalline fruit. Slightly bitter damson fruit. (JR)
Drink: 2015 – 2019
Price: £177 per case ib Lea & Sandeman

JEAN-PAUL ET...
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