Burgundy 2016 – S–Z

JR: See the full guide to our coverage of Burgundy's 2016 vintage. 

Friday, 5 January 2018
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CHÂTEAU DE SANTENAY, Santenay
RH: Reliable and enjoyable, if not thrilling.

Juicy and crisp on the palate with a simple, fresh style giving correct lemon and apple fruits as well as a slightly herby note on the finish. (RH)

Drink 2018 – 2021
£22.99 imported by Liberty Wines

Spicier than their Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, with pithy green-apple fruit and lemon zest freshening the finish. Some salty character giving a savoury aftertaste. (RH)

Drink 2018 – 2022
£24.99 imported by Liberty Wines

Rich spices and creamy texture with reasonably full body and attractive flinty notes on the finish. More fleshy than zingy, but doesn't lack refreshment. (RH)

Drink 2018 – 2024
£31.99 imported by Liberty Wines

Candied blackberry fruit, light acidity, smoky notes and pliable tannin that is very easy-drinking. Enjoyably self-confident fruit intensity on the palate and finish. (RH)

Drink 2019 – 2029
£TBC imported by Liberty Wines

Something a bit chemical about this nose, and there's a bitter herbal bite to the palate. Plenty of black fruit, but there seems to be a harshness to this which is incongruous. I prefer their villages Mercurey. (RH)

Drink 2018 – 2026
£31.99 imported by Liberty Wines

DOMAINE SAUMAIZE-MICHELIN, Vergisson
JH: Great range of distinctive, terroir-driven wines that combine bright fruit with invitingly rich texture.  

Oak shows on the nose here in gentle mealy spice. Lovely creamy palate shot through with cool, citrus freshness. Perfect balance between fruit and winemaking. Long finish. (JH)

Drink 2019 – 2024
£164 per case of 12 ib Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants

Less expressive on the nose than Sur La Roche Mâcon-Vergisson from the same domaine, and a little more cedary. Marked cedary character on the palate, lean but not mean, tight and fresh with lots of presence in the mouth, breadth and a terrific arrow-like freshness to a long finish. Very good. GV (JH)

Drink 2020 – 2026
£174 per case of 12 ib Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants

Cool, herbal freshness. Stony and dusty. Excellent combination of breadth and texture on the palate and a tight, lively freshness. Just what Mâcon should be. A touch of spice on the zesty finish. (JH)

Drink 2018 – 2022
£210 per case of 12 Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants

Smells as if there is more deliberate oak influence here than in the Mâcon-Villages yet there’s also a steely precision to the aroma. Deep, mildly chewy and with a fresh citrus and spice finish. GV (JH)

Drink 2018 – 2022
£216 per case of 12 Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants

Firm and intense with the rounded richness in the texture as a perfect counterpoint to the bright, cedary, citrus freshness. Really persistent. GV (JH)

Drink 2020 – 2026
£224 per case of 12 ib Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants

Riper fruit on the nose – there’s citrus but also some just-ripe pineapple. Juicy, bright and complete, the finish lengthened by a creamy texture and finely balanced acidity. (JH)

Drink 2018 – 2024
£264 per case of 12 Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants

That rounded character of discreet oak influence and just a touch smokily reductive. Deep, orange-scented on the palate, with an almost chewy texture and impressive length. Brilliant freshness all entwined with the fruit and texture. GV (JH)

Drink 2019 – 2026
£276 per case of 12 Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants

Clay soil.
Ripe, creamy citrus aroma but still has a dusty mineral note. Firm and full in the mouth, broad but less intense thant the Vignes Blanches. Clean, fresh cedary finish. (JH)

Drink 2019 – 2025
£244 per case of 12 ib Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants

Calcareous with very shallow topsoil.
More obviously stony on the nose than the Ronchevats but also brighter citrus fruit. Intense, chalky textured and long. Elegant and still creamy on the finish. Creamy enough to enjoy soon but with the core of fruit and freshness for a long life. (JH)

Drink 2019 – 2026
£244 per case of 12 ib Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants

Pale gold. Very rich with a classic, broad Pouilly-Fuissé nose. Almost fat and very evolved – even slightly oily. Absolutely ready. (JR)

13.5%
Drink 2017 – 2019
£220 per case of 12 ib Stone Vine & Sun
 

ÉTIENNE SAUZET, Puligny-Montrachet
JR: A very competent set of wines with lots of easy appeal but good crispness too. 

Very pale. Lightly toasty but distinctly sweet too. Easy to appreciate! Just a tad simple. But manna for airline and restaurant buyers. A little chewy on the end. (JR)

Drink 2020 – 2025
£195 per case of 12 ib Justerini & Brooks

Light nose and then good tension underneath. But overall just a little dull. (JR)

Drink 2019 – 2023
£398 per case of 12 ib Goedhuis & Co

Round and a little rich. Halfway to JM Boillot style?! Easy to like. (JR)

Drink 2022 – 2030
£445 per case of 6 ib Justerini & Brooks

Hint of steel and liquorice on the nose. Some green-fruit flavours and almost painful acidity. (JR)

Drink 2020 – 2025
£350 per case of 6 ib Goedhuis & Co

Light nose. Sleek and neat – bit of a civil servant of a wine; does not set the heart racing. Bit stodgy and chewy on the end. (JR)

Drink 2019 – 2026
£398 per case of 6 ib Goedhuis & Co
 

DOMAINE SEGUIN-MANUEL, Beaune
RH: Rather wild and raw – perhaps in need of bottle age?

Compact and fruit-driven nose with rich, black-cherry fruit that finishes with an unfortunate sourness. (RH)

Drink 2019 – 2022
£195 per case of 12 ib Haynes Hanson & Clark

Rather farmy on the nose, with aggressive tannic grip and a thin, reedy palate. Too lean. (RH)

Drink 2018 – 2021
£215 per case of 12 ib Haynes Hanson & Clark

Cask sample. High oak scent on the nose, but there is fruit to back it up on the palate, albeit of the raw and lean variety. Strangely tight and austere to finish. (RH)

Drink 2022 – 2037
£395 per case of 12 ib Haynes Hanson & Clark

Cask sample. Loads of spicy oak on the nose – this has been given the full grand cru treatment – and the fruit is suitably ripe, though they don’t knit together brilliantly. Full and long, but disjointed. (RH)

Drink 2020 – 2030
£475 per case of 6 ib Haynes Hanson & Clark

Cask sample. Enjoyable fruit complexity on the nose with strong toasty oak influence. More integrated than their Corton-Le Rognet, but there are better buys at the price. (RH)

Drink 2024 – 2044
£625 per case of 6 ib Haynes Hanson & Clark

DOMAINE SÉGUINOT-BORDET, Maligny 

Light citrus, not particularly expressive. Very crisp, light body and just a very slight creaminess in the texture of the finish. A bit too tart to drink on its own. (JH)

12.5%
Drink 2017 – 2019
£174 per case of 12 Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants

Screwcap. Dusty/stony nose. Bright, fresh, zesty. Mouth-watering but in balance. Almost chewy on the finish. (JH)

12.5%
Drink 2017 – 2019
£168 per case of 12 Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants

Screwcap. Even more stony in aroma than the Petit Chablis. Lemon freshness and only a touch more intensity than in the Petit Chablis – seems slightly softer though, and a bit longer. (JH)

12.5%
Drink 2018 – 2022
£192 per case of 12 Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants

More expressive on the nose, with a gentle woody spice underpinning the fruit. Steely and deep rather than rich. Then pretty tart on the finish but with sufficient balance to age well in bottle. (JH)

13%
Drink 2019 – 2026
£270 per case of 12 Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants

Unoaked. Gently creamy/leesy nose, stony citrus. Subtle and nicely dusty. More grapefruit on the palate, tangy and crisp and that same stony character. Very precise, tight and mouth-watering, the crisp acidity balanced by the lees texture. (JH)

Drink 2021 – 2030
£424 per case of 12 ib Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants

Aged in 500-litre oak.
More mealy on the nose than the Preuses, thanks to the oak, a little bit yeasty. This seems to have less concentration at the core but it is fuller in the mouth thanks to the oak. This is broader but has less finesse than the Preuses and perhaps less ageing potential? (JH)

Drink 2021 – 2027
£364 per case of 12 ib Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants
 

DOMAINE SÉRAFIN PÈRE ET FILS, Gevrey-Chambertin
JR: Fair quality and notable density. 

Light, easy nose. Something a little lolly about the fruit. Slightly bitter on the end. (JR)

Drink 2022 – 2028
£420 per case of 12 ib Goedhuis & Co

Much more intense and vibrant than the regular bottling. Definitely worth a premium though it seems awfully expensive for a village wine! (JR)

Drink 2025 – 2038
£575 per case of 12 ib Goedhuis & Co

Rich and winning – transparent and rather charming though with a hint of creamy coffee (an oak effect?). (JR)

Drink 2026 – 2042
£370 per case of 6 ib Goedhuis & Co

A bit reduced (unusual). Good fragrant fruit on the palate with flattering in spades. Then a decidedly pinched on the end. Not showing well today. (JR)

Drink 2028 – 2040
£385 per case of 6 ib Goedhuis & Co

Juicy fruit initially and then some structure. Grainy texture. Needs time but the ingredients are there. (JR)

Drink 2027 – 2040
£495 per case of 6 ib Goedhuis & Co

Deep crimson, deeper than Clos des Lambrays. Very intense with firm tannins – even a little bitter on the end. (JR)

Drink 2026 – 2043
£460 per case of 3 ib Goedhuis & Co

DOMAINE ANNE ET HERVÉ SIGAUT...