Chryseia – the Douro's claret

Bruno Prats, father of Jean-Guillaume and once proprietor of Ch Cos d’Estournel in Bordeaux, was in London recently to show off the evolution of Chryseia, the Douro red table wine he makes with the Symington family in a 50:50 partnership. He had some choice words about Bordeaux, and would not be goaded into extolling the virtues of Douro whites.

Today he lives on Lake Geneva but is also a partner, with Paul Pontallier of Ch Margaux, in Viña Aquitania of Chile, best-known for producing a fine Chardonnay in Malleco in the far south of the Chilean wine map, and, with...