Moldova's wine revolution – the proof

Tony Laithwaite of Laithwaites was one of the first foreign wine importers in the modern era to take notice of the potential of Romania’s eastern neighbour Moldova, which shares that country’s wine-friendly culture, latitude and topography. (Moldova also has considerable limestone.)

He first went there in 2002, when most Moldovan wine was still poor-quality stuff that was exported in bulk to the less-than-demanding Russian market, and Moldova, ‘the poorest...