VDP 2011s – Pfalz & Franken

Coming from the Forster Stift vineyard, the so-called private collection edition bears a very strong expression of its basalt origin, with a pronounced salty tang dominating proceedings on the palate. A small contribution of fresh green fruit provides a point of interest. (MS)

‘Purist’ needs no translation and this is bone dry, raspingly fresh and uncompromisingly minerally stuff, almost like licking a salt cube. Even Riesling masochists may not consider this as an aperitif, but with the right food I can see the attraction. Not for the faint palate! (MS)

The Maushöhle treats us to a little more fruit than its predecessors, but the peachy fruit still comes with a fair share of minerality, and if chalky may be allowed as a sensory impression, this is as close as it gets. If any further tonic was needed, a dash of quinine does the trick. (MS)

Because of its sheer size, the monster (as apt a translation of ‘Ungeheuer’ as any) has received a lot of criticism as a GG, and Acham-Magin decided to downgrade to Kabinett trocken only. A light salty tang combines well with ripe green and yellow fruit, a delicate spicy note adds some intrigue. Full bodied and well structured this is a well-behaved monster. (MS)

The soil composition of the Reiterpfad could almost be called a hotchpotch, but the Acham-Magin estate has managed to turn this into a very attractive mélange of minerality, spice and fruit. More approachable than its counterparts, describing it as pleasant may sound patronising, but it is certainly enjoyable even at this early stage. (MS)

Grown on the black basalt volcanic soil of the Pechstein vineyard, a distinctive mineral streak provides an excellent partner for a refreshing acidity, any youthful edges well buffered by an ample body. (MS)

A cuvée of a number of sites, the 'summer’s dream' represents the fruity alternative to the Eruption’s cutting edge. This is not to say that the Sommertraum lacks backbone, but flinty and crisp notes take a supporting role rather than the lead. Centre stage is taken by a juicy and generous expression of almost exotic fruit. (MS)

Clean, fresh and very dry, this uncompromising style is definitely not aimed at the export market. I have never eaten the firm flesh of a juicy mango in a cool pine forest, but for some reason I associate the essence of this wine with a similar experience. (MS)

Still slightly yeasty, but some attractive peach aromas are beginning to emerge. Though a little broader than the estate Riesling, an honest acidity matches the full body well. A slightly earthy tangent pairs with a delicate note of kernel to give an extra dimension to the flavour foundation of grapefruit and peaches. (MS)

Aromas of stone fruit are given an additional dimension by a gentle notion of exotic undertones. Racy little number with dusty finish of minerality. (MS)

Still fairly restrained on the nose with just a hint of citrus fruit, the palate is a little more generous, the fruit tangent almost bordering onto the tropical. A zesty citrussy edge combines with mouthwatering acidity to create an impression of glacier-like freshness. (MS)

Almost perfumed nose with a pronounced peach aroma. Fresh and lively, but quite soft with it. Unpretentious, pleasant peaches and cream Riesling. (MS)

Delicate green fruit aromas with a light citric nose. Generous flavour with a seductive sweet and sour interaction. Initially quite soft, a lemony edge on the finish takes it beyond the merely pleasant. (MS)

Citrus fruit on the nose with just a splash of peaches. Full bodied and rounded, but with enough juicy acidity to provide an attractive angle. Any residual sugar is kept well in check. Very convincing performance at the Pfalz ‘villages’ level, dry, but generous with it. (MS)

Pronounced fragrance of yellow fruit opens the curtain to a broad and soft style of dry Riesling without a trace of austerity. Mirabelle and fruit flavours are embedded in a creamy texture to extend an invitation for early drinking. For those not familiar with Riesling trocken this might be an ideal starting point. (MS)

A generous flavour of soft yellow fruit takes on an almost sweet expression, and though a juicy acidity makes its mark on the finish, its essentially soft and seductive nature make this another choice for a gentle introduction to dry Riesling. (MS)

Estate entry trocken with a fine balance of fruit (pear and melon), fair acidity, full body and delicate flinty note. Quite soft and approachable. (MS)

Quite a bit different from 2010’s fiercely acidic offering. Almost perfumed on the nose with peachy aromas, a buttery texture softens the impact of well-preserved acidity on the palate. Pfalz authenticity is assured by a clean earthy flavour on the finish. (MS)

Very attractive aroma of vineyard peaches reflects the use of grapes ripened to perfection. Here’s one he picked later! An almost chewy minerally flavour brings some structure to the generous expression of fruit. Delicate earthy and spicy notions heighten the sensory pleasure. (MS)

Marginally my favourite of the Rebholz trocken offerings. The generous stone fruit aromas are perfectly complemented by juicy grapefruit and peach flavours, a mouthwatering acidity and a savoury edge of minerality. You could almost forget it’s dry! Great substance and length. (MS)

Some may find this Franken trocken on the savage side of dry, but it does what it says on the tin (or label in this instance). However, the pronounced salty minerality is ably complemented by an attractive flavour of lime. Gravelly and rugged like Clint Eastwood the pure mineral hits the palate hard, but not without the support of its trusty side-kicks full body and sound acidity. (MS)