Our ex-columnist is treated to a whole decade of one of Burgundy's most celebrated whites.
When Clive Coates memorably described Montrachet as a wine ‘to drink on bended knees, with heartfelt and humble thanks’, I think he was suggesting we convey our gratitude to the gods who carved this perfect vineyard. These days, however, with Montrachet near-unobtainable and always unaffordable, most of us rely on more than just Nature’s munificence to get a taste of it.
On this occasion, my genuflection is directed toward Pablo Álvarez, owner and CEO of Tempos Vega Sicilia, who in late October hosted a remarkably...