I really am very spoilt indeed. Not only does my work necessarily expose me to a constant succession of good and great wines (see, for example, this run of Bollinger RDs), I have some extremely generous friends who share the contents of their superlative cellars with me. Two of them treated me to a dinner to celebrate my 60th birthday this year. The actual date was in April but the celebrations have extended over four months so far and look set to continue, not least with a certain theme in this year's Pebbles Project dinner so generously organised by...