Can you explain Chablis in a morning? Not fully, of course, and not while you are sitting behind a table laden with glasses and spittoons in central London rather than negotiating the stony slopes on a chilly winter morning. However, Rosemary George MW, author of The Wines of Chablis and the Grand Auxerrois, and her two panellists, Guillaume Gicqueau-Michel of Domaine Louis Michel et Fils and Fabien Moreau of Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils, both sixth-generation winemakers, had made a brilliant selection of just 23 wines to illustrate the four themes indicated below in this first-ever Chablis tasting...