4 Dec 2013
Tasting articles

Australia – autumn collection

Tasting articles
Image

See this guide to our autumn collections.

Here's a very mixed bag of nearly 150 Australian wines tasted in London over the past few weeks. As usual, the wine reviews are shown by colour and then in descending score order. As you can see, we are already starting to see some of the wines from Australia's next generation, a world away from the more technological big company offerings.

WHITE

The Islander, Wally White 2008 Kangaroo Island

90% Sémillon, 10% Viognier, the former picked in two stages and the latter picked quite ripe. Whole-bunch pressed. Fermented in 600-litre oak. Lees stirring for 4 months, the varieties blended only after a year in oak. Wally is a nickname for someone acting as a fool, and nicknames in Australia are often the opposite of what they mean. 
Pale greeny gold. Complex aroma – putty, herbs, honey and lemon/lime and the merest hint of flowers and spice. There's delicate incense too. Has all that lovely richness of bottle-aged Semillon and just a slight toasty flavour from that process and a touch of oak. Gorgeous wine that is just fresh enough and so full of flavour and complexity and I sense more to come. A wine to savour. Lingers long. (JH)
13.5%
Drink
2011
–
2016
17

The Islander, The White 2012 Kangaroo Island

Mostly Sémillon with some Viognier. This is lovely, from the first sniff. There's a completeness and a complexity suggested by a lemony aroma that has both honey and flowers behind it. Broad but not quite oily. On the palate, gentle and fragrant, but lacking a little in acidity. Bags of flavour, hint of spice, refined and long but not terribly refreshing. (JH) 13.5%
Drink
2013
–
2015
16

Devil's Lair, The Hidden Cave Chardonnay 2011 Margaret River

Some leesiness and lots of acidity. There is green freshness rather than any oak and richness. This is a Chardonnay with a hint of Sem/Sauv character. It won a trophy at the Sydney show. (JR) 13.5%
Drink
2012
–
2015
£11.49 Wine Rack
16

Plan B! Riesling 2012 Frankland River

Lovely crackly, smoky aromas. Soft texture. A little residual sugar and a whole lot of rich fruit on the palate. Modest finish. (RH) 11%
Drink
2013
–
2015
16

Shobbrook Riesling 2012 Eden Valley

Pleasingly weird, but at the expense of purity – which is a shame, because Riesling really misses this clarity, I think. The character of the variety seems to have come second to the winemaking here. (RH)
Drink
2013
–
2015
15

Jim Barry, Lodge Hill Riesling 2013 Clare Valley

Very restrained, introvert nose. Bone dry finish. Not really for the short term but it would not offend now. Attractive transparency and dryness. Sleek and confident. At the offer price GV. (JR)

12.5%
Drink
2015
–
2020
£12.49 Majestic. Buy 2 bottles each £9.99 until 3 Feb 2014
16.5

Pierro Chardonnay 2011 Margaret River

100% Chardonnay. 100% barrel fermented and carefully matured in specially selected small French oak barriques sourced exclusively from Burgundian coopers. Fortnightly bâtonnage was employed throughout the 10-month maturation period.
Wet stones and stone fruit and much pacier than the Moss Wood Chardonnay 2011. Lovely texture and refreshment factor. Good chew on the end and great drive. Really a very satisfying Chardonnay. (JR) 14%
Drink
2013
–
2018
£41.95 Jeroboams
17

Moss Wood, Moss Wood Vineyard Chardonnay 2011 Margaret River

100% Chardonnay. Bunch pressed, the juice was then cold settled for 48 hours before being racked to new French oak barrels for fermentation at 15-19 °C with selected yeast. Malolactic fermentation was carried out in barrel (up to 30% completion). Bottled September 2012.
Quite leesy and sweet so not quite as refreshing as some. Decent rather than thrilling. (JR)

14.5%
Drink
2013
–
2017
£24.95 Jeroboams
16

Robert Oatley, Finisterre Chardonnay 2011 Margaret River

100% Chardonnay from 15 year-old, vertically shoot-positioned vines planted on gravelly loam soils. Grapes were hand-picked on 6th March 2011 and whole-bunch pressed to new French oak, where the new wine was fermented and matured for 9 months. Robert Oatley Vineyards is the reincarnation of the Oatley family winemaking dynasty. Winemaker Larry Cherubino. Alc 13.0%, TA 7.15 g/l, pH 3.43, RS < 1.0 g/l. DWWA 2013 and IWC 2013 Bronze Medals.
Rich start and very flattering and mouthfilling. No evidence of anorexia. And much more satisfying than any of the white burgundies in this Waitrose line-up – even those far more expensive. GV (JR) 13%
Drink
2013
–
2017
£18.99 Waitrose
16.5

Plantagenet, Samson's Range Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2012 Western Australia

48% Sauvignon with 37% Semillon and 15% Riesling. Plantagenet winery is located in the Mount Barker township. Sauvignon grapes were sourced entirely from Great Southern while the Semillon was from the Blackwood and Geographe regions. All vines are vertically trained, irrigated to maintain healthy canopies and predominantly grow on well-drained gravel loam soils over gravel clay. Harvest started on the 10th Feb and finished 14th March, with average yields of 11 tonnes/ha for Semillon and just 7tonnes/ha for Sauv. Grapes picked at night then gently, anaerobically handled, cool fermented and given a light filtration into bottle. Winemaker Cath Oates. TA 6.8 g/l, pH 3.4, RS 1.7 g/l.
Very low key nose and then sweet palate. Not the greatest example of this quintessentially WA style. (JR) 13.5%
Drink
2013
–
2015
£9.99 Waitrose
15.5

Ochota Barrels, The Slint Chardonnay 2012 Adelaide Hills

Pale bright straw. Smells a bit leesy – not as original as some wines in the Ochota Barrels collection. Fine and a tad milky. Racy and muscular. Should last well. Mandarin peel in spades. (JR) 12.8%
Drink
2014
–
2017
£31 Indigo
16

Ochota Barrels, Weird Berries in the Woods Gewürztraminer 2013 Adelaide Hills

Ukrainian surname. Vineyard he planted 15 years go. Three to four days’ skin contact, wild ferment. No added acid. Treated more brutally than most aromatic wines to build phenolics. Into seasoned French oak.
Very pure Gewurztraminer nose. Rose petals and lemon peel. Cuts off a little suddenly on the slightly astringent finish. (JR)

12.3%
Drink
2014
–
2016
TBC Indigo
16

Jamsheed Roussanne 2012 Beechworth

Pale green gold. Quite peachy nose. Real skeleton to the structure here and definitely much more youthful than the 2011. Still quite chewy. Quite big and bold. (JR) 14%
Drink
2014
–
2017
£23 Indigo
16.5

Jamsheed Roussanne 2011 Beechworth

The old Giaconda vineyard but just the Roussanne. Rick splits this granite vineyard fruit but he no longer buys the Roussanne.
Pale gold. Spicy nose and strongly muscular. More than a hint of the northern Rhône on this wine. Impressive! Not too fat. Really quite racy. And a bit salty. (JR) 13.1%
Drink
2012
–
2015
£23 Indigo
16.5

Jamsheed, Garden Gully Riesling 2012 Great Western

Lots of late harvest rain and lots of botrytis. The same residual sugar as the 2011 but tastes sweeter.
Pale straw green. Very rich and heady on the nose. Spicy and a note of golden syrup on the nose and beautifully precise on the palate. Maybe not quite as long as the 2011 but very flattering. (JR) 12.7%
Drink
2012
–
2017
£23 Indigo
17

Grosset, Piccadilly Chardonnay 2010 Adelaide Hills

40% French barriques, 40% MLF.
Gorgeous vanilla ice-cream oak and orange citrus fruit. So fragrant and opulent. The oak is front-loaded but not overdone. Freshened by high acid and a long, complex, lip-smacking finish. Really sophisticated and long. The comparison with Burgundy is irresistible – the fun part is deciding whether it's more like top Chablis or Puligny! (RH)

13.5%
Drink
2012
–
2020
18

Grosset, Alea Riesling 2013 Clare Valley

First vintage under 'Alea' name was 2012 (prior to that, was called ‘off-dry', which first appeared in 2010). RS 12 g/l, TA 9 g/l. Soft fruit, lime and nettle and a strong green streak – from early picking – but it works thanks to the lick of sugar. Honeyed character. (RH) 11.8%
Drink
2014
–
2019
17

Grosset, Polish Hill Riesling 2013 Clare Valley

33rd vintage. Ripe, succulent, very very bright and compact fruit. Like an over-packed suitcase – the flavour is just waiting to burst out. Needs a good deal of time. A tangible, undeniable mineral character here – slate, granite. (RH) 12.5%
Drink
2016
–
2033
18.5

Hardys, Eileen Hardy Chardonnay 2002 Australia

From the Yarra Valley, Tasmania, Tumburumba and Adelaide Hills. Creamy, soft cheese and sweet candied apple. Some fresh citrus still present, which seems to leave a bitterness on the finish. (RH)
Drink
2004
–
2008
15.5

Hardys, Eileen Hardy Chardonnay 2008 Tasmania/Yarra Valley

Much more obviously oaked than the 2012, tasted alongside. A real time capsule of a Chardonnay: treacle and caramel. Acid sticks out in a way that threatens the balance. Very 'made' – but it delivers plenty of flavours. (RH)
Drink
2009
–
2013
15.5

Clonakilla Viognier 2012 Canberra

Pensive for Viognier – doesn't explode out of the glass. Has the requisite peach and apricot fruit, and a long, persistent length with great concentration at its core. Convincing, if slightly (and deliberately) undercharged for the style. (RH)
Drink
2013
–
2015
£39.99 RRP
16.5

By Farr Chardonnay 2011 Geelong

Surgical Chardonnay – tight, pinched and linear. Has a lovely fruit quality – apple, stone fruit and some spicy oak too. Perhaps slightly underwhelming due to the vintage? (RH)
Drink
2013
–
2016
£46.99 RRP
16.5

Willunga 100 Pinot Gris 2011 Adelaide Hills

Leesy, creamy nose. Dry on the palate, with stone fruits and sweet spices. Good Pinot Gris typicality – nothing wishy-washy, even though the acid is inevitably pretty low. (RH)
Drink
2013
–
2014
£9.99 RRP
16

Willunga 100 Viognier 2012 Adelaide Hills

Very powerful aromas. Peach and apricot yoghurt – real clarity and precision here. Lots of concentration. A textbook Viognier. (RH)
Drink
2013
–
2014
£11.99 RRP
16.5

Dawson & James Chardonnay 2010 Tasmania

Playful reductive matchstick character on the nose – deliberate and controlled. Juicy tropical fruit. Subtle but insistent oak. Excellent. (RH)
Drink
2014
–
2020
£46.99 RRP
17

Tolpuddle Chardonnay 2012 Tasmania

Lean, restrained – almost muted. Lovely acidic line – very naturally integrated. Plenty of pithy structure too. Lime fruit – almost reminiscent of Riesling, in fact. Very well crafted, but very formative. Worth keeping an eye on. (RH)
Drink
2015
–
2020
£44.99 RRP
17

Shaw + Smith, M3 Chardonnay 2012 Adelaide Hills

Tight but expressive too – the oak is showing nicely, giving that super creaminess without being intrusive. Smooth, polished – but perhaps not quite as striking as previous vintages have been. (RH)
Drink
2013
–
2020
£24.99 RRP
17

Shaw + Smith Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Adelaide Hills

Vibrant gooseberry fruit. Positively buzzes with energy. Has great texture too – more chewiness than your standard Sauvignon. Fine grained. Could very easily be from the Loire. (RH)
Drink
2013
–
2015
£15.99 RRP
17

Plantagenet Riesling 2013 Great Southern

Lime juice, flowers, some talc. Very, very youthful but with that instantly gratifying Riesling typicality – refreshing, bright, as shiny as a button. (RH)
Drink
2014
–
2024
£15.99 RRP
16.5

Cullen, Kevin John Chardonnay 2011 Margaret River

Lovely purity and reticence on the nose, then a tight knit, gloriously refreshing palate. Full of vim and waxiness. Fleshy and full – quite unlike the vogue Victorian Chardonnays. Nothing reductive about this! (RH)
Drink
2014
–
2024
£69.99 RRP
17.5

Jamsheed, Garden Gully Riesling 2011 Great Western

Thought to be century-old vines. Mt Langi used to buy from this vineyard, which was unkempt when Gary found it in 2005. Not 100% Riesling. It naturally arrests fermentation at around 15 g/l which doesn’t show because the acid is naturally so high.
Very pure Riesling nose. Very pure and glistening fruit. Good middle. Clean and fresh and very impressively long. The cool, wet vintage which has made great whites in Oz. (JR) 11.8%
Drink
2013
–
2019
£23 Indigo
17

ROSÉ

Maddens Rise, Pink Fizz 2013 Yarra Valley

From a 500 ml bottle with a beer cap. Not much nose. Very very pale pink, with a lively neat mousse. Very dry, more apples and citrus. Blind, I'd probably think it was white. Crisp definition and crunchy. It whets the appetite and sharpens the senses. This would be a fantastic wine to go with amuse-bouches. (TC) 12%
Drink
2013
–
2014
16.5

Ochota Barrels, Surfer Rosé 2013 Adelaide Hills

100% Grenache. Certified organic and planted just before WW2. 24-hour skin contact, basket press, wild ferment and a bit of bâtonnage to get it dry. Aims for some meatiness.
Pale rose colour – looks like saignée. Dry finish. Appetising and lots of personality. Good weight in the mouth but not a hint of sweetness or low-temperature fermentation character. Good stuff as long as it’s not too expensive. (JR) 12.4%
Drink
2013
–
2015
TBC Indigo
16.5

Charles Melton, Rose of Virginia 2013 Barossa Valley

58% Grenache, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon plus Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Shiraz. Very candied fruit aromas – really the boldest kind of rosé you'll ever taste. Chewy tannic feel. Admirably stylised! (RH) 13%
Drink
2013
–
2015
£19.99 RRP
16.5

RED

The Islander, The Investigator Cabernet Franc 2006 Kangaroo Island

Named after HMS Investigator, which carried Captain Matthew Flinders on a journey which included the first European discovery of Kangaroo Island. Schist and clay soils. Aged in foudres for 2 years.
Colour of bruised cherry. Refined and inviting aroma of lightly minty dark fruit with a dash of spice but no intrusive sweetness. Gorgeously silky and fresh on the palate. Caressing and elegant and long yet still with a bit of tannic resistance on the finish to have some life ahead of it. Utterly drinkable with a lovely note of red fruit at the very end. (JH)
13.5%
Drink
2010
–
2016
17

The Islander, Bark Hut Rd 2004 Kangaroo Island

65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Shiraz, 5% Viognier, the last two co-fermented. 3-4 days' cold maceration, yeast inoculated, fermented at 27-30 ºC over 7-10 days; 5-6 weeks total vatting time. Malo in tank on the skins before pressing. Aged in new French oak, 225 and 600 litres. pH 3.7, TA 5.4 g/l.
Mid garnet with the beginning of brick towards the rim. Definite minty aroma, cedar too, balsamic in the herbal/resin sense. Cabernet dominates. Lithe and fresh and refreshing. The fine grain of the tannins still palpable but becoming silky. Juicy fresh fruit and plenty of scent on the mid palate. Ageing gracefully and finishes fresh. (JH)
14%
Drink
2008
–
2015
16.5

Yalumba, Bush Vine Grenache 2011 Barossa

Pale ruby. Warm, gentle nose that approaches you in a cloud. The opposite of heavy though with a dried tobacco leaf finish after lots of gentle sweetness. Mild and friendly. Very recogisable antipodean relative of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Certified old vines in the Barossa scheme. VGV (JR) 14%
Drink
2013
–
2017
£11.75 Slurp.co.uk
16.5

Maddens Rise Shiraz 2008 Yarra Valley

Estate-grown grapes, hand-picked, wild yeasts. 60% whole bunch and on skins for 60 days. Matured in French oak (10% new). Bottled without filtering.
Dark crimson. Smells meaty and deep. Very savoury without an ounce of fat or sweetness. A note of tapenade, and spice, and something of wild herbs – almost garrigue-like. Deftly woven tannins that fit like a chamois glove. So very elegant. (TC) 12.9%
Drink
2013
–
2017
17

Maddens Rise Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Yarra Valley

Estate grown, hand-picked, wild-yeast fermented and bottled without filtration. In French oak for eight months.
Still very purple and deep. Smells of rich cassis. Lots of blackcurrant on the palate too, sweet and thick and velvety. With a slightly bitter black-olive note on the finish. Very easy to like. (TC) 13%
Drink
2013
–
2017
16

Maddens Rise, Rosso 2011 Yarra Valley

A blend of Merlot, Shiraz and Nebbiolo – estate grown, hand-picked and wild fermented. Bright berry nose. Savoury and really mouthfilling juiciness with a streak of liquorice. So vibrant it almost chuckles. Delicious. (TC) 13.3%
Drink
2013
–
2015
16.5

Jasper Hill, Georgia's Paddock Shiraz 2004 Heathcote

Stunning. Sage, mint, black pepper, black cherry. Beautifully sculpted tannins – firm but elastic. Masterful – not just any old mature Shiraz, but something quite different, with really distinctive, esoteric flavours. (RH)

15%
Drink
2008
–
2024
£48 Yapp Brothers
18

Brown Brothers, Single Vineyard Shiraz 2010 Heathcote

There is lots of what looks like useful information on the back label, but it's in very small light print on a black background. Not easy! Mid to pale burnt ruby colour. Warm and rich on the nose but by no means heavy and then there is a slightly medicinal note but it is very appetising. It's just a tad too sweet for my taste but it's well controlled and well made. (JR) 14.5%
Drink
2013
–
2017
£12.99 Wine Rack
16

Mac Forbes Pinot Noir 2012 Yarra Valley

Excellent density and ripeness: effortless yet thoughtful. Great quality fruit plus knowledgeable, sensitive winemaking = this. Charm incarnate. (RH) 13%
Drink
2014
–
2024
17 +

Jim Barry, Lodge Hill Shiraz 2011 Clare Valley

Firm minerally savoury wine with sinew and a dry finish. Interesting 'new style' Oz Shiraz. Cool end. (JR) 13.5%
Drink
2014
–
2020
£14.99 Majestic. Buy 2 bottles each £11.99 until 3 Feb 2014
16

Yalumba, Bush Vine Grenache 2012 Barossa Valley

Soft and gentle. Tugs at your sleeve rather than shouts at you. Interestingly dry on the end but the tannins have been well managed. Clearly old vines. GV (JR) 14%
Drink
2013
–
2017
£13.74 Majestic. Buy 2 bottles each £10.99 until 3 Feb 2014
16

Shobbrook, Casa Rossa NV Barossa Valley

Syrah, Merlot and Mourvèdre. Magic – has all the spice of Syrah and great acidity that really strides through the palate. Attention grabbing, in a good way. The kind of wine to silence a crowd. Fabulous. (RH)
Drink
2013
–
2015
£20 RRP
17.5

Torbreck, Marananga Dam Shiraz/Mourvèdre/Grenache 2011 Barossa Valley

68% Grenache, 19% Shiraz and 13% Mataro. The vines here are planted on specifically selected sites in the Barossa Valley, and many are up to 100 years old. Sustainability and minimal use of treatments are key concerns in the vineyard. Each individual block was picked, de-stemmed, and vinified separately in open top fermenters where the juice was pumped over twice a day for six to seven days. After basket pressing the wines were transferred into tanks where they settled naturally before being racked into old French and American oak hogsheads. Following eight months of maturation the wine was assembled and bottled.
Mid to pale grey crimson. Very sweet and juicy. You can't help feeling the pH of this is teetering on the brink but it's certainly fun and very fruity. Sweet and cocoa with plum juice. Much more character than you usually find on a supermarket shelf. It seems almost to ferment on the palate. Will the producer continue to supply this in the post-Powell era? (JR) 14.5%
Drink
2013
–
2014
£14.99 MArks and Spencer
16

The Islander, The Red 2010 Kangaroo Island

Schist and clay soils. Blend of Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Shiraz, Viognier and bushvine Grenache. 18 months in French oak. pH 3.6, TA 5.8 g/l. Very good vintage on Kangaroo Island.
Dark cherry red. Relatively restrained on the nose with just a glimmer of red fruit and a light note of oak spice. Smells like a cool-climate wine with a hint of pencil lead. More compact on the palate than I had expected, full but not at all heavy. Firm, tightly built with refined tannins that are almost at the point of softness. Long finish and just a bit of heat at the very end. (JH)
14%
Drink
2014
–
2018
16.5

Five Geese Shiraz 2006 McLaren Vale

From Suzanne Trott, the owner of Blewitt Springs. Salty and thick, very much typical of some of the cooler reaches of McLaren Vale. Sweet start but refreshing overall.  Well made. (JR) 14%
Drink
2010
–
2015
16

Fox Creek, Reserve Merlot 2008 McLaren Vale

Dark crimson. Sweet and a bit simple. Very tart and tough. The acidity is really very obvious. Uncomfortable. Awkward. Really, this is just the sort of wine that does not belong to the wider world of wine. Tart. Mass at all costs. (JR)

14.5%
Drink
2014
–
2016
14.5

Thistledown, The Vagabond Grenache/Tempranillo 2011 South Australia

Mid ruby. Lightly tobacco leaf nose. Lots of sweet impact on the palate. Something a little medicinal? Some spice – cloves? Interesting, distinctive wine that people will either love or loathe. White pepper on the nose. But probably a bit too sweet for comfort. (JR) 14.5%
Drink
2013
–
2015
15.5

Moss Wood, Moss Wood Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Margaret River

Cabernet Sauvignon. Underwent malolactic fermentation in stainless-steel tanks, then racked to barrels. Sterile filtered and bottled on 16 October, 2012.
Savoury and a little dry and very slightly austere on the finish. Top-flight Oz claret that is nearly ready. But not cheap! (JR)

14%
Drink
2014
–
2021
£44.95 Jeroboams
17

Moss Wood, Amy's 2011 Margaret River

50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Petit Verdot, 12% Malbec, 5% Merlot. Hand-harvested, de-stemmed. Fermented in open top vats with selected yeast at max 30 °C with hand plunging four times per day. 12 days maceration. Malolactic fermentation in tank, then matured in French oak (25% new) for 15 months. Fined and filtered prior to bottling.
Quite minty nose. Well balanced. Attractive dry finish. Just a few holes on the palate but overall a fine wine. (JR) 14.5%
Drink
2013
–
2018
£14.75 Jeroboams
16.5

Robert Oatley, Finisterre Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Margaret River

100% Cabernet Sauvignon from 15 year-old vines planted on gravelly loam and vertically trellised. Grapes were hand-picked on 25th March 2011. Carefully sorted, no acid additions, and enjoyed a 3 week maceration post ferment. Matured in a combination of new and used French oak barriques for 14 months. Winemaker Larry Cherubino. TA 6.66 g/l, pH 3.52. DWWA 2012 Silver Medal.
Crimson. Warm, round, well balanced and savoury. Still quite tight on the end but proper wine – even if overpriced compared with Wynn's 2008 at £15.99. (JR) 14%
Drink
2015
–
2023
£18.99 Waitrose
16

Wynns Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Coonawarra

100% Cabernet Sauvignon from a dry vintage which needed careful irrigation but favoured excellent flavour development. The wine is produced from only the top 20 – 25% of Cabernet fruit available from Wynns, Coonawarra Estate and the vines have an average age of 33 years and are planted on the famous terra rossa. The grapes were harvested from late-March to mid-April. Matured for 16 months in a combination of new and older French oak barriques and hogsheads. Winemaker Sue Hodder. TA 6.7 g/l, pH 3.48, RS 0.7 g/l.
Ridiculously cheap really – though it always has been. '53rd vintage'. Fills in all the corners on the palate. Salty and fruity and with no rough edges. Far too cheap for one of Australia's icons! And one with a track record of ageing. VGV (JR) 14%
Drink
2012
–
2022
£15.99 Waitrose
17

Walter Clappis Wine Co, The Hedonist Shiraz 2011 McLaren Vale

100% Shiraz, grown biodynamically on Walter Clappis’ own vineyards in Willunga foothills, McLaren Vale. The 2011 vintage is the first vintage to be certified Organic. Soil is rich loam over clay with patches of limestone. Vines are 15 years old, yielding 2 tonnes/acre. Grapes were gently crushed then the must was pumped into traditional open fermenters with twice daily pumpovers and hand plunging. Fermented up to 26 °C. Approx. 25% was run off skins to complete ferment in new French oak, rest had additional maceration. 50% matured in new French oak and 50% in 1-year-old American oak for 18 months. Winemaker Walter Clappis and daughter Kimberley Clappis. Bottled unfiltered and suitable for vegetarians and vegans. RS <2.0 g/l.
Dark crimson. Salty. Dense with some freshness. Tannin and acidity relatively mellow. QGV (JR) 14%
Drink
2014
–
2017
£12.99 Waitrose
16

Plantagenet, Samson's Range Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz 2011 Western Australia

48% Shiraz, 42% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Tempranillo. The Plantagenet winery is located in the Mount Barker township, a subdistrict of the Great Southern region in Western Australia. Shiraz fruit for this wine is sourced mainly from their own Mount Barker vineyards and the Cabernet from a boutique vineyard in the Blackwood Valley region in the SW of Western Australia. Vines are planted on gravelly loam soils and are vertically trained. The wine was fermented warm in closed fermenters for 7 – 10 days then pressed gently for soft rounded tannins. Each parcel was vinified separately and aged in oak barrels with oak staves and chips used to provide a nuance of oak flavour. Final blend assembled in May 2013. Winemaker Cath Oates. pH 3.5.
Minty and with fruit and substance. This seems a decent price for what's offered. QGV (JR) 14.5%
Drink
2013
–
2016
£9.99 Waitrose
16

De Bortoli, DB Family Selection Shiraz 2012 South Eastern Australia

100% Shiraz with grapes sourced predominantly from the Riverina area from 10 – 20 year-old vines planted on clay loam soils. Grapes were machine-harvested in March 2012 and fermented on skins for 5 – 7 days at 20 – 22 °C to maximise fruit, tannin and colour extraction. Rack and return took place 1 – 2 times daily and pumpovers twice a day for 2 – 4 hours depending on stage of ferment. Grapes were slow pressed using a screw press and there was an inoculated malo. 10% barrel matured for 3 months, whilst American oak chips were used during fermentation and about 60% of the final blend spent 3 months on staves (American and French oak) whilst undergoing micro-oxygenation. Made by De Bortoli’s Senior Winemaker Julie Mortlock (who is also in charge of De Bortoli’s flagship wine Noble One). TA 6.4 g/l, pH 3.55, RS 4.5 g/l.
A bit soapy. Can hardly see the Shiraz. Wonder why Australia is bothering to export wines like this? Does no good to the country's reputation. (JR) 13.5%
Drink
2013
£7.49 Waitrose
14

McWilliams, Silverwood Pinot Noir 2012 South Eastern Australia

87% Pinot Noir with 9.4% Mataro to add body and 3.6% Tyrian for spice and complexity. Cooler than average summer conditions for the 2012 harvest lead to an optimal ripening period for the Riverina Pinot Noir. The vines are nearly 20 years old and are planted on sandy-loam soils. The grapes were cold soaked on skins for 2 days to maximise colour extraction, then fermented for 5 days before being pressed off into tank. Racked on to premium French oak staves where it was matured for 6 months until clarification and bottling. Winemaker Russ Cody. Suitable for vegetarians. TA 5.72 g/l, pH 3.5, RS 1.3 g/l.
No Pinot on the nose at all. Light, tart red wine. Back label has lots of guff about history of Silverwood vineyard but this clearly doesn't come from it! Very uncomfortable finish. Does the winemaker really drink this? (JR) 13.4%
Drink
2013
£8.99 Waitrose
13.5

Brick Kiln Shiraz 2010 McLaren Vale

Dark crimson. Masses of American oak – really a bit forced and tart and chewy on the end. Not very comfortable to taste. (JR) 14.5%
Drink
2014
–
2017
£17 The Wine Society
15

Tamar Ridge, Devil's Corner Pinot Noir 2012 Tasmania

Bright, pale cherry red. Autumn undergrowth rather than obvious fruit on the nose. Some sweet red fruit – cherries. Very fresh and lively. Not generous but not too sweet. Fades a little fast. I'd wait for the tannins to soften a little. (JR)

13%
Drink
2014
–
2016
15.5

Ochota Barrels, The Shellac Vineyard Marananga Syrah 2012 Barossa Valley

Vineyard between Torbreck and Greenock Creek, shared with John Duval and picked two months earlier than The Descendant vineyard! Halliday rated it just below Grange!
Mid to deep crimson. Very rich and juicy. Probably one of the less distinctive and most mainstream wines of the Ochota range. But certainly impressive and with great integrity. Sweet. Bit of liquorice and leather. (JR) 13.9%
Drink
2015
–
2023
£35 Indigo
17

Ochota Barrels, Blewitt Springs Grenache 2012 McLaren Vale

Same as Fugazi, made in a barrel and rolled. Left for 186 days. 100% whole bunch, carbonic maceration, malo on skins. Pressed on International Grenache Day. Basket press. Only 99 bottles made!
Very sweet and full of life – bit of charred bacon notes. Delicious whole. Real zest and pure Grenache without the heavy or tough bits. Long. Great balance. (JR) 13.8%
Drink
2013
–
2018
17.5

Ochota Barrels, The Fugazi Vineyard Grenache 2012 McLaren Vale

Blewitt Spings, planted in 1947. Dry grown. About 60% whole bunch.
Bright ruby. Very spicy nose. Full sweet start. Then lots of fine tannins. Good energy there. Crunchy/grainy. Lots of energy. Not too heavy. Quite different from the McLaren Vale Grenache norm. Chewy – almost liqueur – nose. (JR) 13.9%
Drink
2015
–
2022
£30 Indigo
17

Ochota Barrels, Home... Pinot Noir 2012 Adelaide Hills

Made by Amber from a vineyard size of a tennis court with cuttings taken from Ashton Ridge vineyard. 100% whole bunch. 129 bottles, picked by the family in an hour or so. Picture taken by Amber on a bike ride from their little pink house on the Baltic to the winery.
Light ruby. Sweet and transparent and a tad too natural. Fun? A bit chewy and definitely funky. Heartfelt but not quite commercially viable? Belongs in a larder rather than a grand cellar. (JR) 12.8%
Drink
2013
–
2016
15.5

Ochota Barrels, A Forest Pinot Noir 2012 Adelaide Hills

This is the one wine that Amber makes. Name of a song by The Cure, I'm told. 80% whole bunch. Two vineyards, two clones, two barrels. All handmade.
Bright pale ruby. Edgy and very light and lively. Sinuous. Edgy and tastes a bit dangerous. (JR) 12.3%
Drink
2013
–
2015
£31 Indigo
16

Ochota Barrels, The Green Room 2013 McLaren Vale

Bottled in August! 82% Grenache, 18% Syrah. Fresh, vibrant fruit – fresher and more appetising than the 2012. Sweet and spicy but a bit of leanness and freshness. Bit of chew. Fun. Though the price is not that much fun… (JR) 13.8%
Drink
2013
–
2015
£25 Indigo
16

Ochota Barrels, The Green Room 2012 McLaren Vale

66% Grenache, 34% Syrah. Certified organic vineyard on Paringa Hills planted before WW2 and run by an Italian couple. They pick it very early and spends 12 weeks on skins and stalks! Within seven months it's in the (clear pale green) bottle.
Mid crimson. Very distinctive! A bit stinky and tastes a bit dangerous. Just a bit sweet. Bit of jujube and tannins. (JR) 13.9%
Drink
2012
–
2013
£25 Indigo
15.5

Jamsheed, Moonambel Syrah 2012 Pyrenees

Deep crimson. Very healthy sheen. Luxury Syrah! It would be great to have all northern Rhône Syrahs as accessible as this. (JR) 13.8%
Drink
2013
–
2020
£TBC Indigo
17

Jamsheed Syrah 2012 Beechworth

Warner vineyard like the Roussanne. He makes a bit of wine for the owner now so he's probably going to be allowed to put Warner on the label! 100% whole bunch. He generally picks about two weeks earlier than Giaconda. All older 500 litre barrels.
Mid crimson. Heady and scented. Very savoury and energetic. Real toast and energy. (JR) 13.8%
Drink
2014
–
2020
£TBC Indigo
17.5

Jamsheed, Yarra Glen Syrah 2012 Yarra Valley

Same vineyard as the Cabernet Franc. Mid crimson. Low-key nose. Sweet start. A little simpler than some. Just slightly jammy. Like a strawberry lolly. (JR) 13%
Drink
2014
–
2016
£TBC Indigo
15.5

Jamsheed, Seville Syrah 2012 Yarra Valley

Made Beaujolais style. Bright mid cherry red. Cool, fresh, crunchy fruit. With an undertow of graininess. But a big chew underneath. Very bright. (JR) 13.5%
Drink
2014
–
2019
£TBC Indigo
16.5

Jamsheed, Garden Gully Syrah 2011 Great Western

From an old vineyard that supplies the Riesling as well. Seppelt pulled out 35 of the 40 acres.
Very bright crimson. Strongly spicy and with lots of grip and structure. Not quite ready yet. Very long. (JR) 14.5%
Drink
2014
–
2020
£35 Indigo
17

Jamsheed, Moonambel Syrah 2011 Pyrenees

Old vines planted in 1969. Old Taltarni vineyard which has quartz and granite.
Bright crimson. Real bright peppery fruit. Very lively and sappy. Slightly sweet finish but good persistence. (JR) 13.5%
Drink
2013
–
2017
£35 Indigo
16.5

Jamsheed, Ma Petite Francine Cabernet Franc 2012 Yarra Valley

Harem Series. Single vineyard – one of the Yarra's few granitic sites. Carbonic maceration and no sulphur. Malo in barrel and then a token amount of sulphur.
Bright crimson. Very, very fruity and a tad simple – really like a cru Beaujolais. (JR) 13.2%
Drink
2013
–
2014
£18 Indigo
16

Jamsheed, Pepé Le Pinot 2012 Mornington Peninsula

Harem Series. Two weeks before harvest they got classed as a phylloxera zone so had to look elsewhere – this is from a Ten Minutes by Tractor vineyard. Half whole bunch.
Bright cherry red. Quite a savoury nose and then beautifully smooth and relaxed on the palate. Pretty and GV (JR) 12.8%
Drink
2013
–
2015
£16 Indigo
16.5

Jamsheed, La Syrah 2012 Australia

From the Harem Series (although that's not on the label). A blend of Taltarnit vineyard in Pyrenees (70%) and lots of different cuvées from the Yarra Valley (30%), fermented incorporating 75% whole bunches and indigenous yeasts, aged in new and older 500-litre puncheons and bottled unfined and unfiltered eight months after picking. Designed to soak up new oak.
Quite dark purplish crimson. Quite heady nose. Salty and lively and very fluid and accessible. Long and sappy. A lovely drink. (JR) 13.7%
Drink
2013
–
2017
£16 Indigo
16.5

Grosset, Gaia 2010 Clare Valley

85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc. Strikingly leafy nose. Beetroot, rhubarb, blackcurrant. Smoky, bacon fat style character on the palate. Supple, pliable tannins. Sculpted and polished, with clear Aussie ripeness to the fruit, but a savoury sensibility to the finish. (RH) 13.7%
Drink
2013
–
2028
17 +

Grosset, Piccadilly Valley Pinot Noir 2010 Adelaide Hills

Smooth red fruit on the nose with a really subtle stalkiness. Nothing obviously oaky here. Satisfying and crisp. High acid – certainly in the classic Pinot mould. Interesting to see how this would develop – surely there’s some earthiness to come. (RH)

14%
Drink
2013
–
2020
16.5 +

Hardys Cabernet 1959 South Australia

Muddy tawny colour. Fragrant, leafy, soft and tactile. Just a little metallic on the finish. Interesting and valid – but more as a historical document than a drink. (RH)
Drink
1965
–
1990
16.5

Hardys, Hermitage 1971 South Australia

Tawny and garnet. Lovely wood polish, spice, chocolate and caramel scent. This has great soft integration – it seems totally un-manipulated. Very creamy. Lovely. (RH)
Drink
1975
–
2015
16.5

By Farr, Farrside Pinot Noir 2011 Geelong

Explosively stalky nose – I can understand this being divisive, but I love it. Loads of complex, vegetal aromas and bundles of raspberry fruit too. Long, aromatic finish. I love how bold and stylised this is. (RH)
Drink
2013
–
2023
£52.99 RRP
17.5

William Downie Pinot Noir 2012 Mornington Peninsula

More prominent fruit than the Gippsland bottling. Riper, less earthy. Beautiful and delicate, but doesn't quite seem to have the range of flavour of his Gippsland cuvée. (RH)
Drink
2013
–
2019
£49.99 RRP
17

William Downie Pinot Noir 2012 Gippsland

Really aromatic and expressive. Very youthful, bright red fruit. Soy, earth, mint, milk chocolate. Really classic – gives you all the complexity you could want in young Pinot at this price. (RH)
Drink
2014
–
2029
£49.99 RRP
17.5

William Downie Pinot Noir 2012 Yarra Valley

Interesting – this has a funkiness missing from the other two cuvées. Is that from the vineyard – or the winery – or something else? Definite manure aromas, with pure fruit hiding underneath. Quite challenging. (RH)
Drink
2013
–
2019
£49.99 RRP
16.5

Charles Melton, Nine Popes 2010 Barossa Valley

Equal parts Grenache and Shiraz, with a bit of Mourvèdre. Meaty, evocative, sweet oak. Old fashioned Barossa red – and so much the better for it. Real terroir and authenticity here. No 2011 was made, and the 2012 is due at the end of 2014. (RH)
Drink
2013
–
2023
£33.99 RRP
17 +

Balnaves Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Coonawarra

Charming fleshiness and complexity – some soy and sage character. Delicious. Way more structural and savoury than your average Aussie. (RH)
Drink
2013
–
2024
£29.99 RRP
17

Dandelion, Lion's Tooth Shiraz/Riesling 2010 McLaren Vale

Fabulous chocolate and black olive character, so finely crafted while retaining super fruit power. Exemplary McLaren Vale Shiraz. Hard to detect exactly what the Riesling adds, but the result is impressive enough! VGV (RH)

Drink
2012
–
2020
£12.99 RRP
17 +

Willunga 100 Grenache 2010 McLaren Vale

Juicy, easygoing red fruit with that McLaren Vale ripeness really shining through. Slight bitterness on the finish, and warm but not incongruous alcohol. (RH)
Drink
2013
–
2015
£9.99 RRP
15.5

Dawson & James Pinot Noir 2011 Tasmania

Red fruit compote, a smidgen of tannin on the finish. Showing some early leaf litter and mushroom character, which bodes well. Rounded, fresh. (RH)
Drink
2013
–
2023
£54.99 RRP
17 +

Tolpuddle Pinot Noir 2012 Tasmania

Aromatically much more developed than their Chardonnay. Rhubarb, redcurrant, absolutely gorgeous fragrance. Light body, no tannins. Slight stalky scent. Pixel perfect structure. Might not appeal to those who prefer the funkier side of Pinot, but as a classic Tasmanian style, this is an impressive debut. (RH)
Drink
2016
–
2026
£53.99 RRP
18

Shaw + Smith Shiraz 2010 Adelaide Hills

Plump, jammy but not baked – retains a freshness and violet fragrance. Some pepperiness in there too – in fact, there seems to be a lot of complexity just under the surface. Grows in the glass. Deserves keeping and/or decanting. (RH)
Drink
2016
–
2024
£24.99 RRP
17 +

Cullen, Mangan East Block 2012 Margaret River

54% Petit Verdot, 46% Malbec. Still showing some fermentation aromas on the nose, seemingly? Soft, supple fruit. Great definition, very tender tannins. Lovely smooth structure. Not quite the power and breadth to last for a huge amount of time. (RH)
Drink
2014
–
2018
£34.99 RRP
16.5 +

La Pleiade 2010 Heathcote

Planted in 1998 next to Georgia's Paddock. Intense, juicy and firm. Blind, I wouldn’t go straight to Oz. Half the vines came from Chapoutier. All dry farmed. Spicy and dry. Excellent. Long. (JR)

15%
Drink
2013
–
2020
£44 Yapp Brothers
17

Hardys, Eileen Hardy Pinot Noir 2010 Tasmania

Glossy ruby. Full, earthy, leafy nose – very impressively ripe. Some whole bunch here, surely? Reticent oak. Just enough bitterness. Exemplary structure. Perhaps a bit photoshopped, but very good. (RH)
Drink
2013
–
2023
17

Willunga 100, The Tithing Grenache 2010 McLaren Vale

Interesting, esoteric flavours alongside the red fruit – some vegetal character, plenty of floral notes. Gets some interesting expressiveness from the variety. Very succulent and pleasing. (RH)
Drink
2013
–
2016
£19.99 RRP
16.5