I had a most interesting discussion with one of the many celebrated, high-profile sommeliers in New York during my short stay there in March. He was enthusing about the new generation of Australian wines, as well he might. The reason he knew about them – for the likes of Downie, Shobbrook and Lambert tend to make wine in very small, difficult-to-export quantities – was that Wine Australia organised a special US somms' trip down under last year. It was specifically designed to expose American young bloods looking for artisanal fine wine to their counterparts in Australia who produce it. This...