Jancis writes The day before attending this year's big Austrian tasting in London I had lunch with a New York-based wine enthusiast who used to edit a gastronomic magazine. We were deciding what to drink and I proposed a Grüner Veltliner, one of the world's most food-friendly whites. A distinct lack of enthusiasm was expressed, along with the observation that the American market was awash with vapid Grüners.
I'm always suspicious of these generalities, to which New York is, admittedly, particularly prone (see Grüner fights NY faddishness from three years ago). I would agree that there's a big qualitative...